Gardening Through A Drought
Jul 2nd, 2012 | By Mike | Category: Food, Gardening, Top Headline | Print This Article
For a homesteader, gardening is a crucial element of living off the land. If you grow your own food, a drought can be a scary and trying time. However, droughts are a fact of life, and depending on where you live, may be a fairly regular occurrence. That’s why the best way to garden through a drought is to plan ahead. Water is, and always will be, a limited resource. There is only so much water to go around on this planet, and you need to use yours wisely. With proper planning, especially in drought-prone areas, you can minimize the possible losses that a drought can cause. Even with good preparation, there are steps you need to take during a drought, like using your water efficiently that will mean the difference between saving and losing all of your garden.
- Make A Plan. A good, drought-resistant garden starts with good planning. If you have yet to start a garden or have not completed one yet, take some time to make a plan before you go any further. Consider where your plants should go to help conserve water as well as the types of plants you will grow. Plan to put those that will need the most watering closest to the water source and group plants with similar water needs close to each other.
- Use Good Soil. The quality and content of your soil has a lot to do with how well it holds on to water. If your soil is high in clay, it will not absorb water very well and you will end up with a lot of useless runoff. On the other hand, if you have a lot of sand in your soil, the water will soak in immediately, but it will also drain right out again. For soil high in clay, you should add in organic ingredients like peat or compost. With sandy soil, add peat moss, manure, or compost. Add organic material every year to keep the soil in good working order. These additions will break up dense soil and allow roots to grow deeper, but will also give your soil the right balance of absorption and retention.
- Plant The Right Plants. What you plant is crucial to surviving droughts. If you are gardening to live off the fruits of your labor, you may have to stretch and plant some things that use too much water. However, in general, you should be able to find plants that are suited to surviving waterless times. If you are purchasing plants for your garden, look for those that are labeled as drought-resistant. These are varieties that have been bred to tolerate poor conditions. Another way to ensure you get hardy plants is to stick with native species and varieties. These types of plants evolved in the conditions in which you live and are well suited to survive in the local climate.
New Natural Fertilizer Doubles Garden Production!
- Plant At The Right Time And In The Right Way. The soil and the type of plants you use are important, but only two pieces of the drought-resistant puzzle. When and how you place your plants can make a difference. When you put in new plants, they need a lot of water initially. This helps them to establish roots in their new location. If you do this in the summer, you will be providing much of that water from your own faucet. Put new plants in during spring and fall, and you can rely more on rainfall to help you establish your plants. Also consider how you plant them. Putting plants together in groups is more water-efficient. When putting in large plants like trees and shrubs, dig a little moat around them to catch water that runs off during a rain or when you are watering them.
- Use Mulch. Mulch is a wonderful thing for water conservation. A good layer of mulch all around your plants help to keep moisture in the soil where your plants need it. Without mulch, much of the moisture that sits on the surface after a rain or a watering will simply evaporate away. This is especially true when it is warm out. Besides retaining water, your mulch will also help you prevent weed growth, regulate the temperature of the soil, and reduce erosion. Mulch can be compost, pine needles, leaf litter, rocks and gravel, or chipped wood. Decide which will work best for your garden and your needs.
- Use Water Efficiently. Despite your best efforts to plan your garden, to control moisture with soil amendments and mulch, and growing native and drought-resistant plants, you will need to water your garden from time to time. When you do water your garden, do so with the utmost efficiency. Refrain from creating a fixed schedule for watering. Only do so when you see that the plants need water. Check the soil to see if it is dry or moist before watering, as some plants will look droopy only because it is hot out. Timing is important too. Water early in the morning because you will lose much of your water to evaporation in the heat and light of the day. Water your plants deeply and less frequently. This means taking time to really let the soil absorb a lot of water rather than giving your plants a quick spritz every day or so. Deep watering encourages the plants to grow deep roots, which means they will tolerate future droughts better.
It’s designed to help anyone (beginner or expert), cultivate a highly productive crisis garden.
- Limit Your Lawn. The lovely, green grass of a well-manicured lawn looks nice, but it is a terrible waste of water. Keep your lawn to a small plot by creating beds of native plants. Also consider letting your grass go dormant when water is scarce. If your lawn is well-established, you can stop watering it and let it turn brown. It will bounce back when the rains come again.
- Check For And Repair Leaks. Leaks in hoses and irrigation systems are a huge source of water waste. Even a small defect in a hose or irrigation pipe can cause you to lose a tremendous amount of water. It may take time and effort to do so, but you will be glad you did this chore. Take the time to search out any leaks and to repair them correctly. You will save gallons of water in the future.
- Save Rain Water. A rain barrel is an old-fashioned tool and one that you can bring back to be more efficient with your water usage. Having barrels full of water can be a life saver for your plants during a summer drought. The idea is a simple one: place a large barrel under a downspout on your house and watch the rain fall into it. You can build your own barrel for catching rainwater, or you can buy barrels made specifically for this purpose. You want something large enough to collect plenty of water and that has a tight fitting lid. There is no point in collecting the water if you can’t store it. You can even get rain barrel systems that are quite sophisticated and involve pumps to get the water from the barrel to your irrigation system. However you do it, just make sure that you do. Collecting rain water is a very important part of sustainable living. The water you collect should only be used for watering your garden unless you have ensured that it is not contaminated from your roof or gutters. Even then, you would still probably want to purify and/or filter the water before allowing any animals to drink it.
©2013 Off The Grid News








I use 5 gallon plastic buckets with a small hole on the side at the bottom! It takes about an hour to drain and really lets the water soak in, Better than running water across the top of the ground!
How off do you water fruit trees with this method, apples and peaches in particular. thanks for the response.
Becki
We do the same thing. It is a great way to water small trees and plants.
We live in Michigan and right now we have not had any rain for close to 2-3 weeks. We run 2 dehumidfiers in our basement because it is a Michigan basement. and it’s always damp. Between the 2 of them, I can get close to 3-4 gallons every other day or so. I fill up all my old gallon milk jugs, put them in my son’s old red wagon and pull them around to where I need to water. Each plant gets about 1/2 gal. It’s great because then I don’t waste water spraying the plants and possibly getting fungus diseases, and I can water at the root of the plant. It works great. We have to supplement once in a while with the hose, but we try not to because we have city water and we get billed for the water we use.
In the fall, the yard men rake up truck loads of leaves from my neighbor’s yards. I have them dump their loads of leaves in my back yard. I use the leaves as ground cover and mulch for my garden as well as any landscaped areas. Also, add some to my compost piles.
They are FREE and plentiful. And the yard men like not having to truck them over an hour away to dump.
I do this too, and find it works well. Some of my friends in the suburbs have learned not to do it because their neighbors spray herbicide on their lawns, and herbicide in the garden is unhelpful ion various ways…
Great article!
For the last 5 years I’ve been watering some of my beds with drip irrigation hose, which provides a slow steady trickle of water right to the plants’ root zone. It’s saved me water and time, and considerably boosted my harvest in dry years. There are definitely downsides–it’s somewhat expensive to install (though it lasts a long time), and it’s made of plastic, which isn’t terribly environmentally friendly–but it still seems like a good thing on the whole.
They have a drip tube made of recycled rubber that works well. The water weeps through the pipe. It lasts a long time too. It’s 1/4 inch diameter.
Even cheaper than the 5 gallon buckets with holes is the gallon milk and juice jugs. I use a sharp knife or box cutter and cut several slits in each side and the bottom. When I plant my veggies, especially tomatoes, I bury a jug, spout up, protruding about 1″ above the mulch. Then when I water, instead of spraying, you fill the jug with water and it gradually leaks out. Two to three times a week to fill the jug is all it takes for tomatoes, less for other plants such as herbs, about the same for melons and cukes.
If you want to use a water-soluble fertiliser such as miracle grow, use a funnel, measure your fertiliser into the funnel, and slowly run the water through until all the fertiliser is dissolved and in your jug underground, then fill as usual.
I also have faux raised beds. That also helps maintenance and watering chores. That and mulching with grass clippings. Faux” is the key word, here. I didn’t have the money or personal energy, let alone the time, to make REAL raised beds, and since I don’t have mobility issues to require the beds to be higher than ground level, I did the next best thing. I used some leftover exterior grade (note, this is NOT pressure treated) B/C plywood, and formed my boxes right on the area tilled up for the garden (created this year from a sunny area in my backyard, next to the clothesline.
I anchored each corner with scrap 2bys, cut to length, and nailed them in place. I ripped the plywood to about 12″ wide strips (8′ long as the sheets are that length). Over a few weeks, I layered the beds with compost I had gathered from years of lawn and leaf clippings in the back corner of my lot. I turned over the beds with a spading fork and I could not believe how many earthworms were there, just doing their essential little job of amending and improving the soil! This was quite a bonus — because up until April, this had been a summer-hard-baked lawn!
The bed or beds that need protection from the critters (Bambi & Peter) will get some leftover fencing or chicken wire, stapled to the plywood. I hope, if time and creativity permits, to paint the outside of the boxes and make some artwork on them (flowers, fines, etc) but right now the faux raised beds are doing the job. I continue to layer my vegetable beds with grass clippings and that includes the walk areas between the beds, which keeps the paths much cleaner and keeps the unwanted growth down considerably.
There’s a product on the market I use to help keep my plants watered. It’s called “Water Keep” and it’s available here.
http://water-keep.com/
I use it in all my potted plants and it is available in larger quantities for your in ground garden. Helps to extend watering intervals significantly, give it a try. You’ll like it.