Newcomers to the lifestyle are sometimes a little dismayed at the end result of dressing out some of the more commonly kept chickens however. Being used to supermarket chickens that are all plumped up on hormones or specifically bred to produce enormous sizes, they feel underwhelmed at the sight of a home-grown chicken.

It’s true that most of the dual purpose egg/meat breeds and even the heavier meat breeds that naturally reproduce have less meat-to-bone ratio than the hybrids or chemically enhanced birds seen in the produce aisle, but they are generally healthier, and best of all, will produce a self-sustaining food source for you and your family.

When new homesteaders start out looking through the hatchery catalogs, or stop in at their neighborhood feed store to look at the new spring chicks, they are often tempted to select a flock of hybrids that are very common, even in backyard and homesteading coops: the Cornish/Rock cross. These animals grow at an amazing pace and produce a dressed-out carcass that will rival just about anything seen in a supermarket. Cornish/Rock cross chickens will reach an eight-to-twelve-pound dress-out weight at about eight weeks of age. That’s an incredible growth spurt that just doesn’t happen in nature.

The super birds are appealing and seem to make sense at first, but there are some definite drawbacks. First of all, those new to raising chickens may not realize that these specialized birds require a little extra care to reach their full potential. In fact, these monsters of the chicken coop often die before reaching the chopping block, and new flock owners feel disappointed and their freezers remain empty. The reason so many die too soon is that the terrific growth rate of these birds is unnatural. It puts too much strain on their hearts and also makes it difficult for them to stand. Their legs simply can’t support the massive weight being put on them at such a young age, and they can’t get up to get to water or food, so they die.

How to Raise Meat Hybrids to Slaughter Weight

High-protein foods and vitamins in the water are a very important element in raising Cornish/Rock crosses. The higher protein level gives them more muscle strength, and the vitamins also help them maintain the strength they need both in power and cardio aspects so that they can thrive.

This guide is full of advice and information you need to choose from the 100 most familiar breeds of chicken.

Cornish/Rock chicks also require a little more care in the beginning. They may actually crush each other if they have to huddle for heat, so making sure there is plenty of space under the heat lamps to keep them warm is a must. You should also be careful if you decide to keep other standard breed chicks with the hybrid chicks. The larger hybrids will easily crush smaller chicks and can keep them away from food and water sources if they are not plentiful enough or spread out enough.

Getting the Right Chick for Your Homestead

While the crosses are attractive and look like a great way to fill a freezer quickly, they aren’t the best breed of chicken for homesteading. First of all, they defy the first rule of homesteading: everything must be self-sustaining. If disaster strikes and you need to rely on your animals for food, those hybrids will provide for the current year, but what about later? Hybrids do not reproduce the way standard breed chickens do. First of all, they simply are too heavy to sit on any eggs they may produce. They also are not as inclined to seek out mating and set eggs. Chicks that do result from a miraculous mating and hatching do not necessarily carry on the traits of their parents because hybrids do not necessarily breed true to type.

The best breeds for homesteaders may be a little less impressive on the cutting board, but they will provide plenty of food and continue to provide it for years to come. They can exist on an easily grown diet that you can grow yourself, which makes them very efficient for those who want to be totally self-reliant. Selecting the best chicken breed to give you both eggs and meat is a little trickier. While many of the egg-producing breeds such as Rhode Island Reds are prolific egg layers, they don’t have a lot of meat on their bones. Wyandottes, Buff Orpingtons, Barred Rocks, Black Australorps, and White Rocks are excellent dual-purpose chickens that will give you a good supply of eggs and provide a good meat source as well.

Not only are the dual-purpose breeds a smart choice for homesteaders since they will reproduce easily and true to type, they actually save more money in the long run. It is true that it may take two birds to equal the same meat produced by a single hybrid, but the quality of that meat will be just as good, perhaps even better, and it won’t cost as much to raise the standard chickens.

Just the water soluble vitamins to put in the drinking water for a hybrid will run between $3 and $5 per week for twenty to fifty chicks and must be used for the duration of their growing life from birth to slaughter. That increases the cost of your meat a great deal and also further removes your efforts from self-sufficiency. You have to rely on outside resources to get your chicks every year and to purchase the vitamins they need to live and grow.

With the standard chicks, you buy them once, provide the proper housing and good healthy food from your own resources, and you don’t have to buy replacements anymore. So when looking at the options for your new homestead flock, keep in mind that in some cases, smaller is actually better, and go with the birds that will truly satisfy your needs and goals.

A Chicken Is A Chicken – Can Chickens Tell The Difference Between Breeds?

New homesteaders eager to start a flock of their own often start out thinking that having more than one type of chicken is a good idea. In many ways it can be. Of course, you could buy a dual-purpose breed that provides both a decent meat source and regular supply of eggs, but certain breeds that excel at one or the other are going to be better at it than the dual-purpose chicken. Meat breeds will produce more meat per pound in a faster time period than a chicken that has some meat and lays eggs on a fairly regular schedule. A chicken designed for optimal egg production is going to produce a lot more eggs per year than a dual-purpose chicken.

In general, chickens don’t understand the difference between breeds and should get along fine. What chickens do recognize are other members of their species that do not look like they do. Yes, chickens are a bit prejudiced. If you have a large group of one type of chicken, they will usually gang up on the one or two others that do not look like they do. They recognize color differences the most and will beat up on the odd chickens in a group. So, when you are looking to incorporate several different breeds of chicken and need to keep them in one large pen, there are two things you need to keep in mind to make it as successful and minimize potential fights as much as possible – aggression and space.

Aggressive Breeds

Some breeds are also more aggressive than others. While Rhode Island Reds are an amazing farm breed for egg production and are fairly docile with humans, they can be very aggressive toward other breeds of chickens. They generally should not be kept in the same confines as breeds such as the Brahmas, which, in spite of the great size, are extremely docile, or Australorps, which are also an excellent egg-laying breed and very docile. If you are determined to keep breeds that are more aggressive with those that are more submissive, pay careful attention to the habits and behavior of the group on a daily basis.

Space Matters

Overcrowding will encourage aggressive behavior towards the odd chickens. Being kept in too small of an area can also create aggressive situations in chickens of the same breed. Aggressive behavior varies from flock to flock and in different circumstances. It can be as little as chasing the submissive birds away from food sources or the rest of the flock all the way to destructive pecking and feather plucking.

This handbook provides an introduction to key aspects of raising and breeding chickens.

Close observation is always important when keeping a flock of chickens to make sure that they are getting along and no one member of the flock is being abused or kept away from food and water. Signs of beginning abuse include:

• Bald spots
• Bloody patches of skin
• Signs of illness including crusty eyes or dirty vents
• Scars or missing portions of the comb or wattles

The Pecking Order

Do not confuse outright aggression with establishing a pecking order. Chickens are highly social and live in a complex flock hierarchy. It may not seem like it to you as an observer. They may all just look like a bunch of birds milling about in a yard, but in their world, there is a very definite establishment of power in the community. When a new chicken is introduced, it will immediately be “low bird on the totem pole” and will be reminded of that status as it becomes a part of the flock.

Care should be taken that the new bird is not overburdened by the group, but as long as it is healthy, do not try and interfere with the group. If you isolate the new bird, it will only take longer for it to become a part of the group and may actually result in even more aggression when reintroduced.

Of course you should always isolate new birds before putting them into the flock initially, but take great care in removing any member of the flock once it is in with the others. Even an established flock member can be treated with aggression if removed from the group for too long.

A Taste for Chicken

Cannibalism is not uncommon in chickens. It can become quite a serious problem when aggression causes bloody patches and the aggressive members of the flock develop a desire to attack each other to get to the flesh of the other bird. This type of cannibalism also occurs with eggs. Great care should be taken to remove all eggs from nests daily and watch for any broken eggs.

Eggs can break from the weight of the hens, from being turned in the nest, or when multiple hens use the same nest to lay their eggs at the same time. When you are allowing a hen to set on a group of eggs to hatch them, you should keep watch to be sure none of the eggs break during the incubation period.

When there are broken eggs on the ground or in nests, the natural pecking from the flock means the birds eat the shells and fluids. Once a chicken eats a broken egg, they develop a taste for it and will begin attacking intact eggs. This is a habit that is nearly impossible to break once it begins.

Chickens that are deprived of calcium in their diet will also develop a habit of eating the eggs. A lack of calcium in the diet will also make eggs weaker and more apt to break in the nests. Since, egg shells are rich in calcium, the birds will naturally turn to the eggs if they aren’t getting the nutrients they need from their foods.

Some farmers purposely feed discarded egg shells to their flocks to provide a great source of calcium. This is dangerous and may create a taste for eggs that leads the flock to begin destroying healthy eggs in the nests. If you want to make use of your empty egg shells from the kitchen, grind them into a fine, unrecognizable powder before throwing it out for the birds to eat.

Keeping chickens can be a lot of fun. If you pay attention to the dynamics of the flock and keep the chicken coop clean, they will reward you with an excellent food source and a lot of amusing antics in the barnyard.

I once introduced a sweet silkie cockerel to my flock, which comprised of fifteen mixed hens and one Dutch rooster. Everyone seemed to get along fine for a while, but post-adolescence, that silkie became more and more dominant, almost pushy, with the hens and the Dutch rooster. I should have noticed the warning signs and separated them immediately, but I got a serious wakeup call one morning when a fight broke out! Luckily, no one was seriously injured (besides the Dutch’s wounded pride).  In the end, I realized my mistake and chose to rehome the silkie, keeping only one rooster with my flock.

The ability to safely house more than one rooster is dependent on the size of your flock and the size of available space, and as I learned, my situation was just not ideal. In general, it’s best to keep one rooster for every seven to ten hens.

Rooster Traits To Keep In Mind

Before bringing in more than one rooster to your flock, it’s important to keep in mind some rooster traits that make them very different from hens.

It should go without saying, but I was still surprised when I witnessed my first “crow-off” with several roosters at once: these guys are loud! And what’s more, multiple roosters set each other off, so they crow more often. Mine like to crow whenever I come home, no matter what time of the day or night that is. Even in areas where you may keep roosters, a noise complaint can mean giving up your chickens.

Roosters have a temperament that is very different from hens. They tend to be more active, more aloof, and most famously, more aggressive. This aggressive streak stems from their instinct to protect their harem of hens, and they are quite good at it. Roosters are courageous enough to attack animals much bigger than themselves without hesitation, including us. While this behavior may seem funny at first when they’re still young, do not underestimate them! They may be birds, but even bantam roosters can cause painful damage. Their beaks can hurt, and their sharp, bony spurs can break skin and are wielded with skill. Small children are especially at risk of getting hurt by an over-protective rooster.

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A rooster’s aggressive nature does have a good side, however. A protective male or two can be a formidable force when defending the flock against predators. My Dutch certainly didn’t have a problem attacking a sizeable garter snake that once got too close to the hens.

Because of their nature, not every farm is the right place to house more than one male with hens. Below are some places that may not be appropriate for keeping multiple roosters:

• Urban areas
• Homes with small children
• Small, enclosed coops
• Flocks kept for egg production

Some flocks, however, can have more than one rooster safely. In order to keep more than one rooster, certain conditions should be met to prevent any problems from getting out of hand. In short, enough hens, space, and food must be provided. Here are some places that are suitable to keeping multiple roosters:

• Free-range flocks with large, open spaces (flocks with roosters require much more than the minimum space)
• Flocks of at least twenty hens
• Owners who wish to breed with more than one rooster
• Farms with multiple coops
• All-male flocks with no hens

Choosing Roosters

While all roosters have the potential to become overly-aggressive and loud, some breeds tend to have a feistier disposition than others. If you choose to keep multiple roosters in your flock, here are some breeds with a bad reputation that you may want to avoid, keep separate, or just be more careful with:

• Game breeds
• Jungle fowl
• Rhode Island Reds
• Aracaunas and other Easter-Eggers

Below are some of the more docile roosters that have a better reputation for flocking together with hens:

• Buff Orpington
• Brahma
• Silkie (though not in my limited experience)
• Plymouth Rock
• Maran

Common Problems

Several common pitfalls can happen when keeping multiple roosters together. Overcrowding certainly influences and aggravates these problems. Keep in mind, these problems can appear suddenly, even with roosters that are related or were raised together.

Excessive Crowing: All roosters crow, it is a part of healthy territorial behavior. When multiple roosters are kept together, however, this natural noisy behavior can get out of control.

Fighting: There’s no way around it. Roosters can and will fight in the presence of hens. Sometimes it’s just a small scuffle; other times it’s a vicious and deadly battle. Vigilance is important, because these tough guys are unpredictable, and two roosters who seem to get along fine one day can duel it out the next.

Overbreeding: Overbred, harassed hens do not make good layers, and the stress may make them cease laying eggs completely. This problem usually stems from either too many roosters or not enough hens. If your hens are showing signs of stress such as plucked feathers, a decline in egg production, and roosting away from the males, consider decreasing the number of roosters or just separating them from the females to give the hens a break. The hens usually recover very quickly, and without hens, the roosters should get along fine.

If your farm is not the best choice for keeping more than one rooster, or any roosters at all, it’s a good idea to order sexed-female chicks, pullets, or adult hens rather than straight-run chicks or eggs, which have a mix of males and females. Avoiding the chance of roosters can save you a headache, as it can be difficult to find cockerels and roosters new homes.

Even the ideal setting, some individual roosters may just be too aggressive, or two males may just not get along for some reason. More patience and vigilance is certainly required when keeping more than one rooster together. If the peace can be maintained, however, multiple roosters can help keep predators at bay and introduce more diversity to your flock.

References:

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/backyard-roosters/

http://blog.mypetchicken.com/2012/10/26/5-rules-for-keeping-multiple-roosters/

Whether you use contemporary or natural dewormers, prevention and vigilant monitoring of parasites is key. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to get rid of all parasites completely without keeping your animals isolated in a glass bubble. Instead, I’m learning that the ideal goal is to have a farm that maintains only small, easily controlled internal parasites that healthy animals can develop immunity against without suffering any ill effects.

Common Worms

The sheer number of different internal parasites, even the ones that only attack the gastrointestinal tracts, is staggering. Just flipping through an illustrated book about them gives me the heebie-jeebies. They really are everywhere. The good news is that not all worms are bad, and in fact, many of them are beneficial to some animals’ digestive systems, helping to break down food and prevent other worms from taking over.

Below are two of the most common parasitic worm types, which are certainly NOT beneficial in any way:

Flatworm/Tapeworm (platyhelminthes): The flat tapeworm can be found in all mammals and less commonly in birds. When passed, they appear to be white, flattened grains of rice. These small “worms” are actually segments of a much larger worm living inside the animal’s intestine. The parasites spread through infested feces and even by swallowing a host flea (cats and dogs often get tapeworms this way). Tapeworms are not usually a problem for grazers such as cattle, but they can compound an existing problem with other parasites, such as the fluke flatworm.

Roundworm (nematodes): There are many different species of roundworm, which can infest mammals and birds. Roundworms were a real problem in my chicken flock a while back, but these worms are also a common issue for grazers, cats, and dogs.

Prevention

A holistic approach towards parasite control with a focus on prevention is a much easier and more effective tactic than using dewormers every time an infestation causes problems. Careful management of hygiene alone can go a long way in preventing a problem before it has a chance to get out of hand. Below are some simple guidelines.

Keep Everything Clean and Dry: Moist and warm environments are where parasitic worms can be found in greatest numbers. Carefully manage animal pens, stalls, and pastures to prevent worm hot-spots by fixing water leaks, isolating infested animals, and properly disposing of expelled worms. Try to keep animals away from large puddles, swampy areas, and manure piles.

Avoid Overcrowding: Animals kept in overcrowded conditions are exposed to more manure and to each other, allowing parasite populations to grow out of control very easily. Make sure that all animal enclosures are large enough, and don’t expand your herd or flock if there isn’t enough space to do so.

Integrate Different Animals: Keeping only one species together in a pen or pasture can be efficient, but it also invites parasite outbreaks, since it makes it so easy for a species-specific worm to spread. Mixing it up out in the pasture with goats, llamas, cows, or other compatible livestock together is an easy and effective way to keep the parasite population down.

Building Immunity: Our animals, when healthy, can fight off many internal parasites they come in contact with without any problems. This ability seems to grow as the animal gets older though, so newborn and young animals of all species are most susceptible.

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Using Dewormers

Even when we do everything in our power to prevent an outbreak, a parasite infestation will probably happen now and again. It’s important to note that every situation is different, and there is a huge selection of deworming products available. Even natural dewormers can be toxic to our animals, so it’s necessary to use only the recommended dose. Always check with your local veterinarian before attempting any treatment, especially for young, pregnant, nursing, and weakened animals.

Conventional Dewormers

Conventional dewormers for tapeworm and other flatworm infestations include closantel, oxyclosanide and rafoxanide, among many others that may be combined with antibiotics, laxatives, and other ingredients. In doses too large, they can cause more harm than good and can even kill very young animals.

Conventional dewormers for roundworms include anthelmintics, benzimidazoles and Agri-Mectin products. Some roundworms have started to show drug resistance lately, especially in sheep, so follow up carefully to check on their effectiveness. Like treatments for tapeworms, these dewormers can be toxic when used inappropriately.

Natural Dewormers

There are many effective synthetic dewormer products out there, so why forgo the pharmaceuticals and try natural remedies?

• To avoid worrying about drug residues in meat, milk, and eggs
• Increased drug-resistance to conventional dewormers
• To avoid killing off non-target species (beneficial organisms in the digestive tract)
• To save money by avoiding expensive drugs
• To maintain an organic farm

Botanicals: Many different botanicals exist that can help get rid of parasites, including garlic, goosefoot, pine, ginger, and wormwood. Other helpful plants include fennel and mustard. Some farmers also use pyrethrum – a chrysanthemum extract that is toxic to both internal and external parasites. Many of these make nice additions to a garden or flower bed. For more information on growing, harvesting, and using herbs, Tammi Hartung’s book Homegrown Herbs provides the definitive guide to planting, growing, harvesting, and using more than 100 herbs.

Tobacco: Ground tobacco, such as what’s found in chewing tobacco cans, is becoming a popular natural parasite remedy. It is very easy to make a homemade dewormer using chewing tobacco, and there are owners who claim it has worked wonders on all their animals, including sheep, horses, cattle, chickens, and even dogs and cats.

A word of caution though — tobacco contains nicotine, which can be very poisonous. In small doses, it harms only the worms, but in doses too large, it can make our animals very ill and even cause death. Be very careful when using tobacco, and if you’re not willing to take the risk, consider using a natural, tobacco-based product, and be sure to consult your veterinarian on the appropriate dose.

Other Treatments: Other natural and household wormer treatments include diatomaceous earth, copper sulphate, and charcoal.

While we may never get rid of those icky internal parasites completely, it is at least possible to control their presence and effect on our animals. Try to use a holistic approach by using both preventative and treatment remedies in order to achieve a balance of healthy animals and a parasite population that is as insignificant as possible.

The fact is just about any animal, sufficiently motivated, can and likely will get out. Goats in particular are very curious, intelligent, and driven to fulfill that “grass is always greener on the other side” drive. If they can, they will escape! If you want to maintain good relationships with the neighbors, keep your goat safe, and save yourself some unnecessary worry, invest the time and money in a solid fence the first time around, and be sure to provide toys, climbing structures, and a proper shelter to keep them occupied and happy.

The importance of proper fencing is not just to keep the goats in, but also to keep predators out. Mountain lions, bobcats, and dogs can pose a serious threat to an unprotected herd, and even the most pugnacious of goats will be helpless against them.

Fencing In Bucks And Horned-Goats

Successfully fencing in your goats will probably be a lot harder if you have buck and/or horned goats in your herd. I don’t have any myself, but I have heard plenty of stories from the neighbors. For one thing, certain types of fencing can be dangerous to goats with horns, which can become tangled in the wire. Goats can also be crafty with their horns. One neighbor said that a buck of his figured out how to pull electric wire down using the tips of his horns without seeming to get shocked. I’ve also heard that goats can use their horns to pry off boards on a fence. If you do have horned goats, it’s a good idea to make the bigger investment into high-quality fencing that’s safe and effective against those horns.

Dimensions

Goats need space to graze and play, but unless you feed them exclusively off pasture, these animals do not need a huge fenced-in area.

Take into account the breed and size of the goats your herd. Small goats like the Pygmies and Nubians can crawl under or in between wires, while the larger goats can scale fences of four feet or more. When I rebuilt my goat pen, I made it five feet high. No problems so far, but a part of me is still expecting to see one of the buggers running around loose any day.

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Types of Fencing

There are many types of fencing and fencing materials out there, and each has its pros and cons. Below are some of the most popular types of fencing for goats.

Cattle and hog panels: Some of the cheapest fencing, these can be very effective for the right goat herd. Cattle panels are larger, about five feet high, with six-by-six-inch squares, while hog panels are only three feet high with squares starting at six-by-six at the top and getting smaller towards the ground. Both types are durable and can be used with hotwire. Some drawbacks: horned goats could get tangled in the fence, and many goats, even the little guys, would have no trouble bounding out of a three-foot-tall fence.

Chain-link: This is probably the most expensive fencing, but it is also arguably the most durable, effective, and easiest to install. For smaller goat pens like mine (sixteen feet by thirty feet), it can be a great option, but for large areas, it just isn’t financially feasible for most.

Woven wire: Also known as “wire net,” this is the most common type of fencing for goats. The wire mesh is generally four feet tall and is often topped with a couple strands of barbed wire. Also very expensive, another drawback is that horned goats may get tangled in it.

Electric: When used appropriately, electric fences can be very effective, but you need to introduce you goats to it properly. It’s often used in conjunction with other fencing to discourage climbing, rubbing, and jumping. It’s also relatively cheap, at only a fraction of the cost of the more expensive fencing. It can be set up in a number of ways, including alternating both hot and ground wires in the bottom third of the fence. This is where goats test the boundary the most, and it seems to make the fence more effective.

Electric fencing requires some upkeep, and many types are available, so choosing the right setup can seem daunting at first. All electric fences should have a good grounding system to keep the charge consistent and should be powered with a charger that provides enough power to deter goats.

Construction

Solid fence construction is not a step to be skimmed over. No matter what fence you use, make sure it’s properly installed, with variances in the terrain and all possible weak spots taken into account.

Maintenance

Even the most durable, well-built fence will get some wear and tear, especially from goats. Electric fencing is especially in need of regular checks and maintenance. If any of the wires aren’t hot, or aren’t holding a charge consistently, the goats can – and will – find the weakness and exploit it.

Tethering

If your goats are like mine, and they enjoy breaking down every barrier you put up in front of them, the idea of tethering them to a strong stake seems like a very attractive solution, and I’ve certainly seen plenty of houses around here with goats securely staked outside. (It’s also very common in other parts of the world.) However, it is not a good long-term solution. Goats can get into a lot of trouble when left tied up and unsupervised, and they are basically live bait for any predators nearby. They could tangle up in the line and get injured or choke themselves in a panic. I may try to stake one or more of my goats to help clear some brush that’s getting unruly, but only while I’m there watching them.

Some dos and don’ts that I’ve taken away from my experience and research so far:

• Do take the time and expense to install a sturdy, durable, and goat-appropriate fence, complete with goat-proof locks.
• Do construct safe fencing before bringing home new goats.
• Do inspect and maintain your fencing regularly.
• Do remain vigilant and patient – remember these are smart and curious animals, and they might outsmart you sometimes
• Don’t use cheap, inadequate fencing.
• Don’t leave an unsupervised goat tied up.
• Don’t leave an electric fence uncharged for long periods of time – the goats will figure it out.
• Don’t forget to reinforce and lock the gate every time you open it.
• Don’t be surprised if the crafty buggers still manage to find a new escape route.

While we can’t completely control their behavior or prevent all accidents from happening, these animals are under our protection, and we need to take responsibility for their safety to the best of our ability. Happy, safe, and productive goats are the reward for all the planning, expense, and hard work it takes to contain them.

References:

http://www.goatworld.com/articles/fencing/fencing.shtml

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0005/178502/goat-fencing.pdf

http://www.goatrescue.org/what-goats-need.html

Chasing and barking is a natural dog behavior, but great harm can come to not only your or your neighbors’ animals, but also to your dog as a result. Injuries or illness can occur from contact with another animal, the dog may chase too far and get lost, or a very upset neighbor can bring your dog to harm, either with thrown rocks, a gun, or with poison. An uncontrolled dog that gets off your property is also a liability – owners are legally obligated in most places to keep their dog under control and away from roadways and other people’s properties. A bad pattern of chasing or killing behavior can impound your dog and leave you with heavy fines. Luckily, most dogs can learn to reverse these bad behaviors.

Common Problems

Stalking & Chasing

Stalking, chasing, and even killing other animals is a very common and problematic behavior in dogs on the homestead, and it can manifest itself in any breed. This instinctive behavior is often shown not just livestock, but also to squirrels, cars, and even children. Dogs that stalk and chase tend to get fixated, sometimes going silent first, before erupting into the chase. It may seem playful, even harmless, at first, but the dog is expressing hunting behavior, and a chase may end up being a kill.

Some dogs may also chase out of fear or territorial aggression. My own dog Chico once chased (more like charged) a horse and rider passing by during a walk – he’d never seen a horse before, and I think he was protecting me (and himself) from the huge “monster.” This is different from the “hunt and kill” chase that he liked to do with my chickens.

Excessive Barking

This is another common behavior problem and can be a sign of fear, frustration, or just to let out pent-up energy. Like chasing, it can become harmful, leading to stressed livestock and making it difficult to get work done.

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Training:

To start reversing the habit of chasing or barking, or preventing the behavior in the first place, owners should take stock of their situation and identify the problem. From this starting point, try to change the dog’s schedule and environment to help make it more conducive to training:

• Remove fear/anxiety triggers (gun shots, large animals, etc.) – Helps promote relaxation and reduces tension and anxiety.
• Exercise – Prevents restlessness and boredom and provides an outlet for the dog’s excessive energy.
• Play – A positive reward that drains energy and strengthens the human-dog bond.
• Work – Provides mental and physical stimulation and also strengthens the human-dog bond. Jobs include toting water in a backpack, herding livestock and retrieving tools.
• Socialization – Start introducing new experiences at a very young age, if possible, and not only on the homestead, but also in many different situations to build confidence and trust.

Training

No matter what training method and tools you choose to use, it’s easiest to work with a dog that’s calm. If your dog is showing excitement before a training session, consider draining their energy first, either with a game of fetch or a long walk. I’ve been playing fetch with my exuberant yellow lab with a Frisbee lately before every session and have found that a tired dog is much more likely to focus – especially after they’ve worked up an appetite and you have the treats in your hand!

It’s important to use a lead and secure collar or harness at first. It gives you more control, and more importantly, it protects your animals. It’s also important to keep your dog calm. Early on, I made the mistake of calling and trying to correct Chico after he was already going for the chase. I later found out that it’s much easier to correct his behavior before he gets worked up.

Following are some popular training methods used to curb disruptive behaviors. While they work differently, when used properly they can help the owner train their dog to master a few vital skills, including focusing on the owner, coming when called and learning to remain calm around other animals.

Training Tools

• Head-halter – A relatively new tool for dogs, it works just like a horse halter: it fits over the head, with a strap over the muzzle, and attaches to a lead under the chin. When the dog pulls, the pressure redirects, forcing them to turn their head towards you. It’s widely considered to be a useful and humane tool, as long as it fits and is used correctly.
• Check-chain – Also called a “choke chain.” A useful tool when used properly, but can be dangerous if not. The chain tightens around the dog’s neck when they pull, applying even pressure and mimicking a bite. Ask for a demonstration or watch a video on proper check-chain use before trying.
• E-collar – A controversial tool, the electric collar delivers a vibration or a shock at different levels when the owner presses a button on the remote. Can be dangerous – and inhumane – if used incorrectly. In some circumstances, especially if the dog is putting itself or others in great danger, professional dog trainers will recommend it. Professional guidance is strongly recommended before using the e-collar.
• Clicker – A useful training tool that reinforces a desired behavior. Very easy to use and can help teach even very complicated tasks.

There is no perfect way to train every dog for every situation. After all, dogs and their owners are individuals, and what training methods work great for one dog may be totally ineffective for another. No matter what, be sure that you know how to use your training tools and techniques appropriately. When in doubt, or if you need some guidance, enlist the help of a reputable dog trainer. Consulting with a professional can go a long way in making the training process more effective and progress more smoothly.

Stopping unwanted behavior takes a lot of time, energy and patience – dogs do not change overnight – but in the vast majority of cases, it is possible to train your dog to get along with other animals. My own Labrador may still chase the chickens every now and then, but after three months of work, I’m finally seeing glimpses of the sort of behavior I want, and it helps encourage me to work through the stumbling blocks along the way. The result – a happy, harmonious homestead – is more than worth the effort.

Starting the Process

A common reason for confusion among new and prospective chicken owners like me is the huge array of variety that’s available. There are literally hundreds of breeds, and many of those breeds come in different colors and even different sizes. Taking the time to research can be a fun and interesting process though, and hopefully this little guide can help untangle the web of confusion that I was met with at first and help smooth the research process along.

First of all, there’s size. Many breeds come in more than one size, so it’s important to note which size you’re looking for:

• Bantam – These are best described as “mini-chickens” and are bred for show, ease of care, small spaces, and as pets. They are often very friendly and tame and great with children. Many are productive layers, but the eggs are quite small. The “true bantams” are breeds that are only available in bantam size (the Dutch is a good example).
• Standard – These are the formal breed size. All breeds described below are standard varieties, though some, including cochins and leghorns, come in the bantam size.

Layers

For most chicken owners, eggs are one of the most important aspects of owning one of these birds. However, not all chicken breeds are good egg layers. Following are some of the most popular egg-laying breeds, which can boast 300 eggs per year or more:

• Hybrid layers (Red Stars, Sex-linked, etc.) – 300+ eggs per year. Among the best egg producers, these hybrids lay eggs almost daily starting at a younger age than most. They are excellent producers and very easy to handle. They make great beginner birds in coops, but they are not suitable for free-ranging or cold climates.
• Leghorns – 300+ eggs per year. These are the quintessential egg layers that produces commercial eggs for the supermarket. They come in many colors, including white, brown, and silver.
• Aracaunas/Ameraucanas  – 150-250 eggs per year. There is some contention over the name, as it encompasses more than one breed. Like many others, I just call them “Easter-eggers,” as that is their claim to fame. They lay beautiful green-to-turquoise eggs. While not as productive as other layers, they do offer a bit of variety to your flock.

This handbook provides an introduction to some of the key aspects of raising and breeding chickens.

Dual-Purpose

Self-reliant, hardy, and great birds for both meat and eggs, dual-purpose chicken breeds are a great starting point for both urban and rural areas. These are among the most famous and popular breeds of chicken.

• Rhode Island Red – 280 eggs per year. One of the most popular and famous breeds, Rhode Island Reds are very hardy and suitable for free-ranging and cold climates.
• Plymouth Rock – 150 eggs per year. They are very large, hardy birds that produce large brown eggs and can grow to more than nine pounds when full-grown.
• Buff Orpington – 250 eggs per year. A traditional English breed, these birds are known for their beautiful, golden feathers, large brown eggs, and sweet disposition. They are great beginner birds.

Brooders

If you’d like to raise your own chicks one day, it may be a good idea to invest in a broody hen or two. While these breeds can be moderate layers, they are most known for their desire to go broody, or to sit on eggs. This is an undesirable trait for good egg production, and many breeds no longer carry this trait. But worry not – I’ve had both cochins and silkies adopt other hens’ eggs and do the mothering work for them.

• Cochin – Hailing from China, this is a large, fluffy breed that has an easygoing and sweet disposition. Excellent mothers, they readily adopt eggs and chicks from other hens. Thy are also very cold-tolerant and available in a wide variety of colors.
• Brahma – These are also great brooders and mothers. Very docile and versatile, Brahmas are moderate layers and make great pets, especially for families with young children.
• Silkie – The Silkie is a very popular breed for its unusual looks and super-soft feathers. These birds make great mothers and feature a docile temperament. The bantam silkies in particular love to be held and make great pets.

Boilers (Meat)

These breeds tend to be heavier than other chickens and are often less active as well. The Cornish in particular are often crossbred with dual-purpose chickens to produce hardier boiler birds.

• Cornish – 8 pounds. These are heavy meat birds that are often crossbred with the Plymouth Rock. They are not very active and can be noisy. They are not recommended for a mixed flock or for free-ranging.
• Dorking – 6.5 pounds. An ancient breed from Europe that is also dual-purpose, as Dorkings are moderate layers. In addition, the hens can be very broody.
• La Fleche – 5.5 pounds. This is a smaller French breed known for its superior flavor and texture.

Free-Range

Free-range chicken breeds have numerous shared traits, all of which help them thrive in the outdoors. One common trait is temperament – these breeds also tend to be quick and shy, and they know how to avoid predators. (This also makes them difficult to catch!) In addition, their hardy nature makes them good free-range chickens.

• Catalana – The most popular breed in South America, this is a great choice for hot climates. It is also a moderate egg layer. It’s a very active, skittish breed that does best in a free-range environment.
• Hamburg – An old breed from Holland, this tough breed is a good layer. Very cold hardy, it doesn’t tolerate closed spaces well. These active birds enjoy open spaces and are very good flyers. Shy and difficult to approach.

Of course there are many more breeds out there that can be just as good, if not better, for your needs than the ones listed above. Having trouble deciding? A mixed flock can be a great option. Mixing different breeds allows you to experience the best (and worst) that chickens have to offer. For example, my first flock was a varied mix of Easter-eggers, Silver Leghorns, Buff Orpingtons, and a very sweet Silkie. Now, I wouldn’t say that it’s the best mix for everyone, but mixed flocks like this one include good egg layers, broody hens, hardy dual-purpose birds, and a fun pet chicken that enjoys to be held.

One surprise I encountered while researching was my discovery of poultry shows – that’s right, just like dog breeders and owners attend dog breed shows, chicken owners and breeders show their birds to a judge for that best-of-breed title. If any are held in your area, I encourage you to check one out! They are usually open to the public, and they are a wonderful, hands-on way to see each chicken breed for yourself and to speak with local experts and breeders. For the newbie chicken owner, a poultry show offers a wealth of information and is a great place to discover new breeds. For a listing of poultry shows in your area, visit the American Poultry Association website.

Choosing the best breed for your first chicken coop can seem daunting at first, but the joys of raising these birds and eating fresh, nutritious eggs is more than worth the effort. Even after you think you’ve found the perfect breed for your urban or rural farm, try to experiment every year or so – you may just find another favorite!

The Ingredients

Honestly, the ingredients for homemade dog shampoo are so simple and effective that you will never buy another over-priced bottle of store-bought stuff ever again. Some people use one or two more ingredients, but if you want to keep it simple, then all you have to use is clear antibacterial soap and white distilled vinegar. Mix it in equal parts and apply to your dirty dog. Sometimes people also use water to thin out the soap just in case it is a little harsh on their dog’s skin, and other times people add a bit of glycerin, but other than that, dog shampoo is simple to make.

However, if you want something that is even more natural, there are other options. If you have a dog with extra sensitive skin and it can’t even handle gentle dish soap, then you can try to make an oatmeal-based shampoo. For this, all you need is oatmeal, baking soda, and water. You need to blend the oatmeal into a flour-like texture and then mix it with the baking soda and water.  Finally, shake well.

If you want to make natural dog shampoo that smells better than soap and water, there are oils and butters that can be added to your homemade mix. Lavender and chamomile essential oils can be added to the oatmeal or soap-based mixtures, and they will add a pleasant smell to your dog after bath time. These oils can also be used to treat skin conditions. Lavender is good for irritable and itchy skin, and chamomile is a natural anti-inflammatory, making it a good match for dogs with chronic skin conditions or for dogs that are allergic to other shampoos.

Solid bars of dog shampoo can also be made. These are good for storage, and you can make a lot at one time. Plus, they make great Christmas gifts for your dog-loving friends. The base for these dog shampoo bars are cupuacu butter and shea butter. Olive oil can also be a base for making bar-form dog shampoo, as well as a handful of other base oils. The same process for making dog shampoo bars is the same for making shampoo bars for humans. The typical ingredients for any shampoo bar are:

• coconut oil
• olive oil
• castor oil
• jojoba oil
• shea butter
• cocoa butter
• beeswax
• milk (any kind)
• lye

Unless your dog has extra sensitive skin, this shampoo bar will work just as well for canines as it does for people.

Flea Treatments

Besides shampoos, it is also possible to make homemade flea treatments for your dog as well. Sometimes they are built right into the shampoo, and other times they are made separately and applied to hot spots.  If you put peppermint into a bar of homemade dog shampoo or in the liquid version, it will help drive away pesky fleas. Fleas do not like the smell of peppermint or lavender, so both will work as homemade flea treatments. However, the best way to ensure that your dog does not pick up fleas is not through proper oils and spray, but by keeping them healthy. Fleas are much less likely to stay on healthy dogs; they usually infest unhealthy dogs or dogs with poor immune systems. If you find that your dog does have fleas, there are some natural ways to get rid of them. One way is through vinegar. The vinegar you use in homemade liquid dog shampoo will work for this. Again, fleas do not like the smell of vinegar, just as they do not like the smell of certain essential oils. Dishwashing liquid in general is good for getting rid of fleas. This time though, it is not the smell that repels them, but rather the oil used in the liquid that kills and drives away fleas. It is also possible to make a flea spray by combining water, lavender oil, and cedar wood oil.

Coincidentally, many of these same remedies for fleas will also work for ticks too. Many areas of the United States have ticks that can attach to you and your dogs. Ticks carry lime disease just like fleas can carry tapeworms, so it’s best to thoroughly check your dog every time they run through the forest or through tall grass.

Since most homemade dog shampoo also drives away fleas, it makes you wonder why so many manufacturers of pet products make you buy them separately or why they prevent shampoo from also getting rid of fleas. Just like making homemade products for yourself, making them for your pets is a way to know exactly what you are putting into or on your body. The chemicals that come in shampoos for both dogs and humans are not all necessary to clean hair; they are mostly additives that can strip hair of natural oils that would otherwise keep it shiny and healthy. Lots of different additives are added to our pet’s food in addition to their shampoo and flea medication, but often just simple essential oils can get rid of a flea infestation, so why would you spend upwards of twenty dollars on flea medication that often doesn’t properly work or gives your dog irritated skin?

Not only can you make healthy and natural pet soap and shampoo, but you can also make natural dog food as well, which can help your pet’s coat and flea problems. If you know the diet that your dog needs, it is pretty easy to whip up a meal that will help their coat, their skin, and their teeth. Different breeds of dogs often have different dietary needs, and if you want, it is very easy to make a big batch of specially-made dog food and can it so that your dog is able to enjoy it for months.

If people care enough about their pets to make them sweaters, then they should care enough to worry about their coats, skin, and dietary needs as well. Humans aren’t very happy when they’re forced to use shampoos that make their skin itch or when they find that their house is invaded by pests, so why would our dogs be happy about it? It’s not enough to play with them and give them a warm place to sleep. Our dogs also deserve proper health care, including shampoo and flea treatments that are gentle, natural, and effective.

©2013 Off the Grid News

Raising chickens is not hard. Your grandparents didn’t have the local Wal-Mart supercenter to run in and buy a package of chicken breasts: they raised their own. They probably gathered their own eggs as well. You can do the same thing, and you don’t have to live on forty acres to do it. Many people are returning to living off the land, and raising chickens has increased in popularity.

Why Raise Chickens

In addition to knowing what your chickens have ingested and what types of medications and supplements your chickens have been given, you will also have fresh eggs. One hen can provide you with about 200 eggs a year. You will also have a protein source that is organic and pesticide free. You won’t have to worry about going to the local grocer when you need chickens or eggs.

Start Your Chicken Coops and Nesting Boxes

Before you run to the local barnyard auction or farm to buy chickens, you need to make sure you have their house ready. Chickens don’t require a lot of room, but you need to have some type nesting area for the hens to lay eggs and a coop area for scratching and exercise.

Start out by making your nesting boxes. Hens like dark, dry places that give them enough room to stand up; a 12 x 12 x 12 is a reasonably sized nesting box. Just remember to adjust the size if you have a larger breed of chicken! You should put wood shavings or pine straw in the bottom to absorb moisture and keep the box warm. When you build your box, add a roost bar to the front of the box. This gives the hen somewhere to jump as they are going into the nesting box. When you build your boxes, make sure you add a lip or front edge to keep the hens from pushing the bedding out of the box. Finally, pitch the roof to keep the hens from roosting on top and making a nasty mess. You don’t have to raise your chicken coops off the ground, although many people do. If you choose to elevate your nesting boxes, don’t put them too high off the ground and make sure you have enough roosting bars or steps to help them get into the box.

Your chicken coop is also easy to make and very inexpensive. You have probably seen chicken condominiums that take a lot of time and money to build. These are not necessary to raise chickens. All you really need to make a chicken coop is some chicken wire, wood, and straw for the bottom of the coop. This coop is just an enclosed area for the chickens to live in; the nesting boxes will be utilized for egg laying.

Choosing Chickens

Once you have your nesting boxes and cops, you are ready to buy some chickens. You can find some chickens that are layers and fryers, meaning egg producers and good for meat. However, the majority of chickens are either layers or fryers. You may want a few of each. You should also make sure you have a rooster in the mix. A good rule of thumb is one rooster for every twelve hens; however, this number varies depending on whom you ask. Watch your hens, and if you see them becoming bare backed, you have too many roosters.

Feeding Your Chickens

This is noteworthy as it plays a role in the taste of your chicken and eggs. You need to make sure your hens have plenty of food and water. Some food and water tips you can use in your chicken-raising venture are included here.

• Water: Fresh, clean water is an important part of raising chickens. One hen can drink about two cups of water daily. Your job is to make sure they have an ample supply and that it is clean.
• Food: Chickens have a simple diet that consists of three basic foods: protein, grains, and greens. Protein typically comes from bugs that your chickens pick off the ground. If you are concerned that they aren’t getting enough protein, you can add fishmeal, worms, soybeans, or milk to their diet. Greens are easy to provide. You can fence in a patch of grass and let your chickens feed daily, or you can toss them some greens from the kitchen. Keep the trimmings from your vegetables and give it to the chickens. Finally, all chickens need wheat, corn, and oats. Many people call this chicken scratch and buy a mixture at the local feed and seed. However, you can use the following recipe for a healthy chicken food that you make at home.

Homemade Chicken Feed

Mix the following ingredients in a five-gallon bucket with a lid.

• Corn Meal – 2 parts
• Soft White Wheat – 3 parts
• Red Winter Wheat – 3 parts
• Oat Groats – 1 part
• Split Peas – 1 part
• Lentils – 1 part
• Sunflower Seeds – 2 parts
• Flax Seed – 1/2 part
• Quinoa – 1 part
• Kelp – 1/2 part

Mix well and feed your chickens daily. This is a terrific alternative to buying scratch feed at the local feed and seed.

Caring for Your Chicken

Chickens don’t require a lot of care. You will need to make sure they have food and clean water daily. When your hens start laying, make sure you gather eggs. You should also keep a close eye on your rooster-to-hen ratio. If you start seeing bare patches on your hens, you should consider having chicken for dinner soon. Too many roosters can upset the hen house.

Raising chickens for eggs and meat is not difficult. You can make a small chicken coop in your backyard with very little expense involved. You may never go back to commercially raised chicken again. Your chicken will be clean and chemical free. Do your family a favor and get busy with those nesting boxes.

©2012 Off the Grid News

Getting Started

As we are entering fall and approaching winter, gardening projects may be the furthest things from your mind. However, this time of year is great for planning. As you watch the leaves come down and you tidy up your lawn and garden, you can start thinking about next spring. In fact, the best time of year for putting in your new pond is the end of winter or the very beginning of spring. Whenever the weather in your area is suitable for digging in to the ground and spending a couple hours outdoors working on your project is the right time to get started. It is possible to start digging out your pond in the fall; however, you won’t be able to put your final touches on it so the shape may disintegrate over the course of the winter.

The next step towards making your pond is to decide where to put it and what size and shape it will be. The best location is somewhere that will allow you to enjoy it. To attract the most wildlife, you do not want to put it too close to the house. On the other hand, you want to be able to see it, so avoid putting it in too obscure a spot. You may also want to avoid making your pond under a tree because of the roots and the falling leaves, which will clog up the pond. Full sun is not great either, because the pond can get too hot, evaporate, and develop algae blooms.

Once you have a plan for the size, shape, and location, you need the right materials. For creating your own pond, you will need at a minimum, a shovel, level, pond underlay, pond liner, and water. The underlay can be old piece of carpet, or can be purchased from a garden supplier. The liner should be purchased from a garden supplier. In addition to the basic materials, you will also want to consider plants that you will put in around the pond as well as any rocks, gravel, or water features that you may want to add.

Digging The Pond

The hardest part of this project will be digging out the pond. Mark out an area first for the shape and size that you want. Dig it out such that you end up with different depths. Most of the pond should be fairly shallow, around four to six inches. You can dig out a deeper section to about twelve to eighteen inches. Shallow areas are important for much of the wildlife that will inhabit the pond, but a deep section will help some of your little friends overwinter.

Another important consideration when digging out the pond is to make some areas of the pond edge gently sloping. Certain kinds of wildlife may fall into your pond and be unable to get out, like squirrels and chipmunks. Also, your salamanders, turtles, and frogs will appreciate a gentle entry and exit. Your edges will also need to be level. If it is not the same height all the way around, your water will drain out unevenly. Digging the hole for the pond is the most time- and labor-intensive step, but it is also the most important. Take the time to get it right, or you will end up with an unsatisfactory pond and will want to tear it out and start over again.

Line And Fill

Smooth out the edges of your pond and double check how level it is. Make sure there are no sharp objects sticking out, like rocks or sticks, and then put in your underlay or old carpet. Press it into the sides and bottoms of the pond so that it conforms to the shape you want. Put the liner on top of the underlay. Center it in the middle of the pond and press it down so that the liner creases along the sides of the pond. Put water in the deepest part to hold the liner in place. You can also use rocks for now if you are not ready to put water in yet.

Once you are ready to fill the pond, the water will keep the liner in place. Your hose water, however, may not be right for your pond. Check with your water company to see if you can use it in a pond or if there is too much chlorine. If your water is not suitable, you have a couple of options. You could purchase something to remove the chlorine or you can let rainwater fill the pond.

You may also want to include some water from a natural pond. This is a great way to introduce wildlife right into your pond. You may get some tadpoles if you scoop water out at the right time of year. Additionally, you will add all the microbes that your pond needs to become a healthy ecosystem.

Use large rocks to hold the liner in place, and after one rain, you should be able to remove them.  Once the pond is full, trim off the edges of the liner and underlay material. If you are planning to edge the pond with stones, leave several inches of the liner in place and put your rocks on top of it. Just remember that you need some areas to have a gentle slope, so do not put a steep rock ledge all the way around the pond.

Finishing Touches

Once you have the above steps completed, it’s time to do the fun stuff. Your pond will need plants, both around the edges and in the pond itself to have a fully developed pond ecosystem. The wildlife that will be attracted to your pond will need plants for cover and protection from predators. For diversity in wildlife, you should have a diversity of plants.

Submerged plants are those that will add oxygen to the water and are essential to the health of the pond. Water lilies are one example. Marginal plants, those that grow around the edge of the pond, are needed to create habitats for insects and cover for other animals. Irises, flowering rush, spearwort, and water plantain are good choices for marginal plantings. Also consider St John’s wort, marsh marigold, watercress, water forget-me-not, and other bog plants. If you are unsure about what plants to use or if you want to use native species only, visit your local gardening center for advice.

Waterfalls and fountains can add a nice touch. You will need a pump to get the water moving, and if you have never done it before, consider getting someone to help with installation. Birds are actually attracted to moving water, and it should not disrupt other wildlife. There is no need to add any animals, other than your bucket full of pond water. Let the wildlife come to you and enjoy!

©2012 Off the Grid News