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Common Chicken Diseases and Their Cures

Even the best cared for flock will sometimes have health issues. Chickens are especially vulnerable to disease where their “wilder” counterparts (ducks and geese) have better resistance. Knowing what to look for and how to treat common chicken diseases can help you catch problems early and hopefully prevent them from taking out your entire flock.

Preventative Medicine

The best cure for chicken diseases is the prevention of them beforehand. There are several things you can do to help promote good health in your flock. These include:

  • Carefully observe all new chickens in separate quarters before introducing them to the flock to avoid brining in new diseases.
  • Keep water bowls and food dishes clean and make sure feed stays dry. Feed only as much as the chickens will eat in a day, and avoid throwing feed on the ground or floor. Instead use a good quality feeder that has small openings so chickens can eat from it, but not walk through the food.
  • Keep the coop as clean as possible.
  • Be careful when feeding to avoid any food with mold.
  • Don’t feed any kitchen scraps that may have mold or be rotten.
  • Pay careful attention to the entire flock and each individual animal for any signs of abnormal behavior or illness.

Signs of illness to watch for in your chickens:

  • Wheezing
  • Diarrhea
  • Bloody stools
  • Nasal or oral discharge
  • Twisted neck or head
  • Loss of appetite or weight
  • Drops in egg production
  • Missing feathers
  • Scabs
  • Joint swelling
  • Thin shells in eggs
  • Abscesses
  • Open wounds
  • Paralysis or uncoordinated movements
  • Dehydration
  • Enlarged abdomen

Specific Diseases of Chickens

While the list of actual diseases possible in chickens is long, only a few are common enough to merit watching for. Any more serious diseases or illnesses should be seen by your veterinarian. Additionally, many more serious poultry illnesses must be reported to the Department of Agriculture in your state.

Crop Impaction: A hard, compacted buildup of food in the crop. Chickens do not have teeth, so they use a bag in the lower portion of the neck that holds gritty substances such as minerals from the ground and small rocks that are ingested during normal pecking habits to break up the food before passing it to the gizzard.

Help break up small impactions by soaking a small piece of bread in olive oil and feeing it to the chicken. The oil can lubricate the lump in the crop. Next, massage the crop to further break up the loosened material. Continue this routine twice a day until you can no longer feel a lump.

Prevention of crop impaction is best done by providing plenty of grit for your chickens to eat. They may not be getting the necessary amounts from the ground, especially if their outdoor area is small and has been inhabited by the flock for a long time. You can buy grit at most feed stores or livestock areas in farm stores. It also contains extra calcium and minerals that are good for your chicken’s overall health.

Fowl Pox: Not related to the human chicken pox, fowl pox shows up as one of two different types of lesions. The first is called the “dry form” version and looks like warts on featherless areas of the bird such as the legs. It takes about two weeks for the lesions to scab up and heal. During that time, chickens will become thin and may die from dehydration and lack of eating.

The “wet form” of fowl pox appears in the mucous membranes of the mouth and throat. The lesions are a canker-sore type of outbreak. During the time when the lesions appear until they go away in about two weeks, the biggest concern is the blockage of the airways and an inability to eat due to sores in the mouth and throat.

There are two ways chickens can contract fowl pox: direct exposure to infected chickens (which is why it is important to quarantine unknown animals coming into the flock until they can be judged healthy) or from mosquitoes. Keeping any areas where water can accumulate clean and dry is the best way to keep mosquitoes away.

Pneumoencephalitis: Also called Newcastle Disease, this is a respiratory disease and is serious because it is one of the diseases that can be passed to humans and other animals. Signs of pneumoencephalitis include nasal discharge, difficulty breathing, swelling of the face, trembling, paralysis, and a twisted head or neck.

Pneumoencephalitis has a high mortality rate, and it can be as much as 80 percent fatal. It is transmitted in the air, so it is exceptionally hard to prevent. Pneumoencephalitis is also easily carried in on boxes, feed containers, packages, clothing, or bodily secretions.

There are no known treatments for pneumoencephalitis, and the best way to keep it from spreading through the flock is to tightly isolate the infected bird(s) and take exceptional preventative measures to keep it from spreading to other areas of the farm on your clothes or person. That means caring for ill flock members last, and then immediately removing clothing before entering your home. You should also bathe thoroughly after any exposure to ill chickens.

Poultry affected by pneumoencephalitis are usually given antibiotics to prevent secondary illness that occur due to respiratory distress. Consult with your veterinarian any time you suspect a case of pneumoencephalitis in your flock.

Botulism: Known by many names including bulbar paralysis, limberneck, and alkali disease, the most common cause of botulism in chickens is feeding spoiled or rotten food. While humans and other animals can be infected with botulism, it is due to the same reasons chickens get it, and it is not passed from bird to bird or bird to human.

The first sign of botulism is most commonly paralysis. The legs and wings are the first to become affected, so chickens with botulism can first appear uncoordinated. They then get worse as the illness progresses until they can’t stand and the neck and head are no longer under their control. Death occurs due to a paralysis of the respiratory system and is frighteningly fast. Depending on how much bad food is eaten, botulism can kill a chicken in less than twenty-four hours and even as fast as twelve hours.

An outside source of transmission is the presence of decaying carcasses. Always keep track of your chickens, and remove any ill or dead animals immediately to prevent other flock members from pecking at the body. Also keep an eye out for wet bedding. Clean floors regularly and keep the outdoor areas where chickens roam free of feces and garbage.  Eating maggots in waste areas or any place garbage may accumulate can also pass botulism to chickens. Keep all poultry away from those areas.

©2011 Off the Grid News

© Copyright Off The Grid News


  1. Has anybody heard of a pullet that at 6 month old lays one egg and then stops laying altogether? I have 2 pullets now about 10 months old. Rosie (Rhode Island Red) lays almost every day. Maggie (Dominique, we think) has laid one egg, but hasn’t laid since that first egg. They have a peaceful environment 12’x15′ yard, plenty of fresh water, laying crumbles, fresh greens like kale to munch and scratch. They have 2 nest boxes. Water is available also inside their coop. They go out at sunup and in at sunset. Rosie is so tame that she follows me all over the yard and even runs to me when I come to check on them. I can scoop her up and pet her and Maggie is not at all interested in human social interaction. My question is: how do I get Maggie to start laying?

    • You don’t say where you live, but chickens require a certain amount of daylight to lay. Days are getting shorter in the northern hemisphere and Maggie may just need more hours of light. You could try lighting the coop a couple extra hours after sundown, or wake them up early with a light on a timer.

    • She could be eatting the egg after she lays it before you find it.

    • I’ve learned something recently that has made a HUGE difference in our egg production from our little 12 hen flock. These are young hens on their first egg laying cycle. This Fall their egg laying dropped to sometimes none. We were told by a neighbor to put a light on a timer over their roosting place. We put a 100 watt equivalent CFL that is only pulling 23 real watts. I timed it to come on at 4:30am and go off after the sun is well up. It takes 3 weeks for an egg to develop and be ready to lay, so give it some time, but in 4 weeks we have gone from almost no eggs to 7 a day regularly.

  2. hey,

    In my experience most diseases come w/bringing in adult birds from away. I quit bringing in strange and replace birds from my own flocks by either a broody hen which once setting will raise any other birds eggs or a incubator. I favor the broody hen as when hatched also teaches, warms and guards the chicks. I’ve had chickens hatch turkey and guinea eggs to great success. Otherwise will have to set up brooders which isn’t difficult or expensive and use heat lamps till they feather out some.

    Also all my birds free range and that I think also makes them less prone to sickness. I am surrounded by fox and coyotes, skunks, weasels, etc etc but bonded a LGD, A maremma, to the birds as a just weaned pup and other than a few guinea fowl losses due to they range further than the safety zone the dog patrols and watches over had only a couple of losses. A couple from owls and one from a red fox that took the big boy once to catch on to.



    If need birds buy day olds or hatching eggs and raise yourself.

  3. I bought chicks from a hatchery. They arrived April 12th and one a day started dying since that day. I have never had problems before and have done the same things I always have. They have pine wood shavings, clean water with 15cc of albon and commercial feed. Before they die they are gasping for breath, stay under the heat lamp with a drooping head, some have twisted necks, are listless, and have a raspy cheep. I have researched, but can’t find the exact answer. I thought maybe it was apergilliosis, but am not sure. We have tried putting tetracycline from our vet in the water, but that is not helping either. I tried isolating the sick ones today. Please help.

    • Just started researching about chickens & their diseases, sounds like pnuemoencephalitis (check spelling). Talk with ur vet. Also contagious to humans. Bath after handling birds/wash clothes. Be blessed.

  4. My chicken are getting skinny and wont eat and then die.Help

  5. our baby chickens which were shipped to us on 29 March, 2016, 2 were dead when we recived. waste on their behinds, now we are having the same problem with the rest ,one has just died. a few more are starting have their waste sticking to their behinds. never had this problem before could you please hlp. thank you.

  6. My chicken has been sick for about 5 weeks. It started with her not being about to use her right foot, we put her in a pen alone to see if it would heel and she couldn’t run around and then she didn’t get better, so we thought it might be broken, so two weeks ago we bandaged it up and now today she can’t use the other leg. She is still eating and drinking and very alert.
    Can anyone help me with this?

    • Exactly describes the symptoms of a black hen of ours. First right leg, somersaults if she makes a run for food, loses balance crumplesheet in a heap, we pick her up and wedge her upright in a small daytime isolation coop to keep her from the rough housing of other chickens. Eats voraciously takes pieces of grape and we have to make sure crimbues are in a chick trough near enough for her to reach without her tumbling over into a heap reaching first it, same with a water bowl. We,are in Payson UT. Other birds,unaffected. Vet gave a ,weeks supply of clavamox in case of an odd infection but blood specimen came back non specific infection and raised inflamation blood cells. As she raises her tail it’s part of the commencement of imbalance like she is straining to poop. Not egg bound the vet said. My email is [email protected] phone 801 234 9181. Any. Advise or any experience of these symptoms or suggested cause would be ernesty appreciated. Henry Taylor.

      • Did you figure out what was wrong? I have a hen with the same symptoms and I’m at wits end about what to do to help her. Please let me know.

    • can any1 tell me what my rooster has the night before he was doing great now he cant stand up he eats and drinks its been 5days now he crows like hes stopped up can any1 answer that

  7. I have a full grown up hen which has developed a hard swelling in her throat (super larynx to be precise). In the beginning, the tip of her tongue was yellowish (now its ok). She also has thick clear saliva dripping from her mouth. She isn’t eating anything but keeps on drinking water.

    Months ago one of my boosters developed canker like sores on his tongue. I gave him metronidazole, amoxicillin and anti-fungal drops. He recovered. But he used to eat lots of tomatoes when he was sick.

    But I have to force-feed this hen and I have been giving her metronidazole, amoxicillin and the same fungal drops but its been months now and no signs of improvement at all. She has become very weak, light, and walks very slowly.

    From the time she has been ill, we have kept her away from the flock and is in our home…

    Please help identify what’s wrong with her…

    • I don’t remember the name but it is hereditary . n there is no cure. I saved a chicken off the side of a highway last year that fell out of a truck had half her beak gone bleeding out all orphases n had to feed her through a strange for a month. Betty cla cla was her name. But after several months of work in hard to get her right she came ill n my mom told me w at it was cuz she went to classes on it. If her comb n waffles are kinda shoveling up n turn in darker also then that’s another sign. It sucks. Sorry .

  8. I have a baby Cochin that had two scab looking things at where the wings begin. None of the other have that. Do I need to be concerned for my other ones? Do I need to do anything?

  9. thanks a lot… this article really helped me………

  10. HELP! My hen started with a crooked neck we separated her and gave her vitamin e. She is moving and eating but now her neck is under her body? Is there anything I can do?

    • I’ve had hens with droopy necks before that responded to my giving them several whole peppercorns. MyDad taught me this.

  11. My chicken (4 months) all of the sudden got paralyzed…legs only. Typically, this is from a scorpion sting but she is not any better after 4 weeks. She is eating and drinking fine and her wings are flapping good. any ideas?

  12. I got 5 Polish Bantam chicks. There about 2 or 3 weeks old and 2 of chicks has died. A third one is very sluggish and not sure she will make it. The one’s that have died and the sluggish one has red under their beak. It is not blood but the skin is red. Any ideas of what to do to help these chicks.
    I have 15 Frizzle chicks I just raised and put out in a fenced enclosure and had no problems, but these new chicks have me baffled. They have water and mash and are warm ( in a large chick tote on my dining room table). Just hoping I don’t lose the other 3.

  13. I don’t remember the name but it is hereditary . n there is no cure. I saved a chicken off the side of a highway last year that fell out of a truck had half her beak gone bleeding out all orphases n had to feed her through a strange for a month. Betty cla cla was her name. But after several months of work in hard to get her right she came ill n my mom told me w at it was cuz she went to classes on it. If her comb n waffles are kinda shoveling up n turn in darker also then that’s another sign. It sucks. Sorry .

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