Of course, the AK-47 is an assault rifle, which makes it a favorite target for gun-control advocates. One of the anti-gun lobby’s favorite cries is, “Why do you need an AK-47? No one needs an AK-47 for shooting deer.”

They’re right: I’ve never shot a deer with an AK-47, and thank the good Lord I’ve never “needed” one (at least not as a civilian). I own one because one day the police may not be there for me. We say we are a civilized people, and for the most part we are, but some people are only civilized because men with badges and guns keep them that way. Should I ever face a situation where civilization collapses—even in a local way, like Hurricane Katrina—I want a good rifle.

A good rifle has a few requirements, and one of them is reliability. Everyone’s heard it before: AK-47s work covered in mud, snow, sand, zombie goo, etc. You hear it so often because it’s true. The reason why is simple: to understand, all you need to do is pop off the dusk cover and take a look. Everything in an AK is open, meaning there is lots of room for dirt and grime to build up without affecting anything. Not only that, but the reliability is increased by the ease of design: a simple piston, bolt, and spring construction.

Another requirement for a good rifle is easily obtainable ammo. I have focused on the AK-47 instead of the entire AK series of rifles because of the 47’s caliber. The 7.62 round is a favorite of mine, whether it’s the NATO standard or the Russian. When you have an AK-47, it can double as an efficient hunting rifle, as the 7.62 round is suitable for medium and even large game in North America. The 7.62 x 39 is ballistically similar to the 30-30 round, so at 300 meters and under, the rounds pack a punch. Should you have to dispatch an attacker, this round will put him down, and for good too. In addition, the ammo is affordable to stock pile. In fact, I saw a 1,000-round case for $200 today.

How to hide your guns, and other off grid caches…

Ergonomics is where the AK-47 lacks any kind of grace. The rifle is comfortable to fire—don’t get me wrong—but it has some rough edges. The first issue is the position of the charging handle: it’s on the right side and either requires the shooter to take his firing hand off the pistol grip or learn what can be an awkward technique of sticking his left arm under the gun. I have an option to fix this with the AK lightning bolt. The lightning bolt comes with a dust cover with a slit on the left side to accommodate the left-side charging handle on the lightning bolt.

The second issue is the safety: it’s a huge bulky thing that screams Soviet Russia, and like the charging handle, it also requires your hand to come off the pistol grip. Another complaint is that the stock pistol grip is rather small, which is odd after seeing some pictures of the huge Ivans from over there.

My last complaint doesn’t involve every model of the AK, but a few I stay away from. These include the models with the East-German-style wire folding stock and the under folding stocks that often come out of Yugoslavia. Don’t even get me started on the East German—it’s literally a wire. The under folders I fired in Romania were a little better than these, but still not very comfortable to acquire a cheek weld, especially in full auto.

I haven’t mentioned accessories yet: the AK needs nothing more than a few magazines, and everything else can stay stock. Remember, I said needs. This is America and we love accessorizing, and AKs these days have more than enough options.

To mount optics you have three options: a traditional side mount, a dust cover mount, or a gas tube rail. I prefer the side mount, as that’s how the AK was made to take optics and is the most dependable. The dust cover mount is better for someone who prefers the more western style of mounting optics. The gas tube mount is for simple red dots only and is usually the most affordable option.

You can replace the wood stock furniture with a number of accessories, from folding M4 style stocks to AK stocks from the 100-series AKs. The fore end options can be all railed out to your heart’s content, so mount your fore grips, lasers, and flashlights all you want.

My experience with AK magazines has been nothing but great. I have a Romanian magazine, a Chinese magazine, and a Tapco polymer magazine, and none of them have ever given me feeding problems. I don’t know what it is about AK mags, but like the rifle, they just work. I also like the simple mag release, which accommodates either hand to remove the magazine. It’s a simple paddle release: very easy to learn and use with either hand. I’ve never fired from a drum, but I might fix that soon.

An AK has an effective range of 300 meters. Yes, I know AK-47s aren’t giving you the same range as an AR, but how often will you be in an engagement over 300 meters? Mikhail Kalashnikov didn’t design this weapon to kill bulls-eyes; he designed it to kill men, and that’s what it does. The pelvic girdle and the internal organ kill zone are your targets. As someone who’s been on both sides of an AK, I can say it’s an effective weapon. Untrained Taliban fighters were accurate enough to make me wish I wasn’t 6’4” in a firefight.

Another huge issue when buying a rifle for me is price; I don’t want to spend a thousand dollars or more on a tool that I’m going to beat the hell out of. A basic AK-47 is around $500 when it is new in the box, so even with buying 1,000 rounds, you’re still not spending a grand.

The AK may not be your perfect rifle, and you may disagree with my points. As someone who uses firearms regularly, I highly respect this weapon and suggest it to anyone who needs a good rifle for when things fall apart.

The Need For A Backup Weapon

Most big game hunters will be adequately equipped with a suitable rifle for hunting said game. Needless to say, anything that is considered to be “big” or “dangerous” game should be hunted with a rifle of .30 caliber and above. This includes .30-06, .300 WinMag, .338 WinMag, or even .308 Winchester. Realize that for most African hunts, these calibers are on the inadequate side. Calibers such as .416 Rigby and .375 H&H are extremely popular, as are even larger calibers. So who needs a backup weapon with this sort of firepower at their disposal? The problem arises when the first shot either misses its intended target or only wounds the beast. Even the act of missing completely could spook the animal and send him charging towards your position. Occasionally, the wounded animal rapidly spots the hunter and makes a beeline for him as its last act of self-defense. Follow up shots on a bolt-action rifle aren’t very fast – most big game rifles suffer from massive recoil, which means you will get off exactly one shot before you need to reacquire the charging target. This is an extremely challenging maneuver when you have a 1000+ pound animal charging you. The best thing to do is switch to a backup weapon!

Learn the secrets of a veteran hunter as he shows you how to quickly and efficiently field-dress your game

Other Rifles As A Backup

If you have multiple people in your hunting party, they can all engage the animal with their rifles if need be. If you are hunting alone or with a single friend, you more or less have the same problem. Ideally, a semi-automatic backup rifle is the solution. Such a rifle wouldn’t have long-range sights but would rather be set up for short-range use. An excellent way to go if you already own an AR-15 patter rifle is to swap out the upper receiver with something like a .458 SOCOM, .50 Beowulf, or .450 Bushmaster upper. These hard-hitting, short-range rounds are massive and powerful, and they come in magazine-fed weapons with a ten-round capacity, meaning you can fire off ten continuous rounds at a charging target – more than enough for backup. While these rounds don’t have the range or accuracy of your hunting rifle (nor would you really want to use them for hunting in the first place), they offer bone-crushing stopping power inside of 100 yards—enough to stop any animal that roams North America in its tracks if need be. The downside, of course, is the weight of carrying around a whole other rifle and its associated ammunition. If you hunt via an all-terrain vehicle or expedition vehicle, this might still be an option for you.

Handguns As A Backup

A large-caliber handguns has traditionally been a hunting-rifle backup for decades. Calibers like .357 magnum and .44 magnum have been traditional backup weapons for nasty beasts that just won’t die. For North American hunting, .357 magnum is really lacking in stopping power. While it is formidable when used on a human, it just doesn’t have the power needed to stop a 500+ pound animal. The .44 magnum should be considered the minimum caliber required for use when stopping a big game animal. Newer calibers such as the .500 Smith and Wesson magnum also bear some looking at – the .500S&W is a magnificent caliber with plenty of stopping power, albeit at the cost of weight and expensive bullets.

When hunting, shot placement is everything. You expect and strive to make that perfect one-shot kill through the heart or lungs. Sometimes, however, things don’t go as planned, and you need to have a fast firing backup gun to keep you and those around you safe. Remember, nothing reloads as fast as grabbing another weapon!

©2012 Off the Grid News

Explaining the Technology

What a visitor to the HAARP installation in Alaska would see is a series of large radio transmitting antennae, arranged carefully in what is known as a phased array. These particular antennae are capable of producing radio waves at extremely high frequencies, and when coordinated in a phased array, they would be able to create an extremely powerful stream of energy that could be focused on one point far up in the earth’s atmosphere, all the way up to the ionosphere. The ionosphere is a layer of charged particles high in the planet’s atmosphere, at an altitude of approximately sixty to ninety kilometers. The short radio waves used to transmit radio signals to distant locations are bounced off of the ionosphere at an angle and reflected back to the earth, where they can be picked up by receiving antennae located far away from the radio wave point of origin. While this kind of radio signal is good for some purposes, it does have limits, as it is usually filled with noise and static and can be easily interfered with by certain weather conditions of even by sunspot activity. High frequency (HF) and extremely high frequency (EHF) radio waves do not have this limitation; but under normal conditions, these very short wavelength radio waves are not reflected back to the earth by the ionosphere, and so their use has traditionally been limited to point-to-point transmissions within range of the horizon.

A phased array of transmitting antennae like those at the HAARP facility can hit the ionosphere with a beam of concentrated power that actually heats it and causes it to bulge out or expand. Devices or arrays that have the ability to cause this effect are known as ionospheric heaters, and the one that has been built on the HAARP grounds is by far the most powerful type of ionospheric heater that has ever been developed. It is a peculiarity of the physics of the ionosphere that once it has been expanded and warped by a powerful focused radio beam, it becomes more reflective than it was before. By being directed toward the bulge, HF and EHF waves can be reflected back to the earth just as easily as radio waves with longer wavelengths and much less power, and this is what the magic of the HAARP system is all about.

HAARP as a Weapon

According to the Pentagon, the primary purpose of HAARP is to improve long-term communication, specifically with submarines that may be deployed in far-off locations. High frequency communication waves bounced off of ionospheric bubbles can travel around the globe, and they can easily penetrate the surface of the ocean to reach Navy subs even when they are deeply submerged.  But while there is no doubt that improving global communication is one of the motivations for HAARP, the important point to remember here is that with HAARP technology, there are no longer any limits on the intensity and strength of the electromagnetic waves that can be bounced off of our upper atmosphere. A phased array capable of generating enough energy to deform the ionosphere in this way can just as easily produce incredibly powerful bursts of electromagnetic energy that can be reflected off of any ionospheric bubbles that have been created – and this includes energy bursts equivalent in strength to electromagnetic pulses produced by high-altitude nuclear explosions.

And indeed, close scrutiny of patents for HAARP technology and various military documents make it clear that plans for HAARP go far beyond simply using it to improve communications. In fact, documents have been uncovered that explicitly state that HAARP technology was built at least in part because it would be capable of recreating the effects of a nuclear-generated EMP. Perhaps the most insidious thing about HAARP is that because it is so isolated and distant from everything, if it were activated and used to send out a powerful pulse of electromagnetic energy designed to destroy another nation’s electric and electronic infrastructure, how would anyone even know for sure what had actually happened? Of course, we might not be all that concerned about this as Americans if we were the only people in the world that possessed this technology. But as you can imagine, other nations like China and Russia are hard at work developing this same kind of technology, and ultimately they will be able to use it secretly against us just as easily as we would be able to use it against them.

And the situation may be even worse than this, because the kind of atmospheric manipulation made possible by HAARP technology could also conceivably be used to control the weather. Massive storms could be created or diverted off of their natural path as a way to attack other nations in an especially insidious and impossible-to-prove manner. In fact, there are some who believe that something like this may have already happened; and further, there are some who believe that HAARP technologies could be used to trigger earthquakes, and that this may also have already been done – although just exactly how high frequency electromagnetic energy could cause this effect is not entirely clear. But connections do appear to exist between certain atmospheric disturbances and seismic activity, so this is an area that needs further study.

EMPs: The Next Generation

Despite assurances of harmless intent, HAARP appears to have significant potential for use as a weapon that would be capable of producing the same kinds of effects as a nuclear EMP. The fact that it would be even easier to use than the nuclear approach is what makes the invention of this kind of technology so disturbing. Atmospheric manipulation could wreak havoc with the entire world economy, causing trillions and trillions of dollars worth of damage that would be extremely difficult to repair completely. In a time when chaos always seems to be just around the corner, the silent terror of electromagnetic attack could be one of the gravest threats we all have to face.

©2011 Off the Grid News

Is .308 the perfect rifle round for all-around utility and hunting?

Ask any expert which rifle caliber will give you the most versatility, and they will invariably have to settle on the .308 as the clear choice.  Taking into consideration the availability and price of ammunition, the load customization capabilities, the power and speed of the projectile, the various manufacturers who make weapons in the caliber, the terminal ballistics as a defense round, and the reliability of the guns and cartridges in this caliber, it seems the answer is clear.

No other round can compete with it on such a wide range of attributes and potential uses.  The .308 can be an excellent choice for a rifle system or rifle portfolio to be built upon.

For all the benefits of the round, you must know its limitations as well to properly use the round:

• For aggressive and massive game where you aren’t completely comfortable making a shot, this round may not offer the proper ballistics for the job.  At close range on a grizzly bear, for example, this round can’t be considered a true one-shot kill with any specific certainty.  It will serve you better than a .223 in this situation, but it’s not going to drop a bear in a stressful situation with any guarantee.  Similarly, in longer ranges for bear hunting, it is not responsible to use the .308, as it cannot guarantee humane and clean kills on such tough animals.
• It is overkill on smaller game like varmints (coyote, etc.) unless you are using specific light loads with higher velocity, like plastic-jacketed penetrator rounds (think .223 projectile housed in a breakaway plastic case which is the size of a .308 projectile).
• You cannot reasonably expect a military surplus round to take out a long-range elk in the .308 caliber, as it simply doesn’t have the long range terminal ballistics to guarantee a clean kill at super long ranges.  You will need to custom build or buy rounds made for the specific scenario you expect to encounter.

You can reasonably expect to cleanly take down the following animals with a .308 (with specific load characteristics listed after the animal):

• Varmints: Using specialty ammunition with high velocity and low grain weights and a barrel capable of sending out a flat trajectory (rifling).
• Pronghorn or similar-sized animal: Though the size is a bit small perhaps for the normal grain weight, look for a good mix of penetration and projectile heft to avoid causing overkill.  Typically a .260 or .270 would be about ideal for this sized animal, so plan accordingly with your grain weights and powder charges.
• White tail and mule deer: These can be easily taken with a .308, but look for a flatter shooting projectile weight and faster bullet velocity to bring the conditions as close to perfect as possible.
• Caribou and large sheep: These should be just about right for a .308, but look for a faster, flatter round within the .308 builds.
• Large mountain goats: These will be in the range of even good quality military surplus rounds ballistics.  Any normal .308 load should be efficient for an animal for this size.
• Elk: Because they are a bit on the larger size, you will want to take shots from under 100 yards with heavy bullets and be precise with your placement on the animal to ensure clean kills.  The flatter and heavier, the better.  High quality loads will make the difference here.
• Moose: Think the same as elk. Look for heavier bullets, shorter distances, and try to find a flat-shooting premium round to ensure success.
• Black bears: These can be taken using proper tactical or heavy-penetration rounds and with good placement.  Look for closer ranges, and try to shoot the heaviest high-penetration rounds you can.  Don’t fool around with light, fast loads here; go for maximum impact and penetration of a heavy projectile.
• Grizzly bears: Make a good responsible shot with premium ammunition that has penetration and heavy bullet weights.  The dense body and bone composition of the grizzly bear will challenge the ballistics of the .308 without proper planning.  It’s almost too much animal for this round.  It’s not responsible to try with substandard loads at long distances.  If you feel you can’t follow these guidelines, look for more gun/caliber when dealing with these animals.  You could shoot a grizzly with a .375 or a .338 and still have concerns about proper kill certainty.  These animals are tough and aggressive, so be prepared to follow up your initial shot, even with excellent ballistics.

Humans are another animal which can reasonably be taken down with a .308, but it is slightly outside the scope of this article.  Know this: The .308 is a battle-proven long-range capable and terminal caliber when used against human beings.  It has been thoroughly tested and proven on battlefields around the world in conditions far exceeding those you can reasonably be expected to take a shot in on a normal day.  It is a widely used caliber for police and military sniper activities, and should not be discounted as an anti-personnel round.

Bullet weights come in 55, 110, 130, 150,155, 160, 165, 168, 170, 175, 178, 180, 185, 190, 200, 208, 210, 220, and 225 grain for the .308, which will allow for almost unlimited tailoring to your specific situation.

Safe powder capacity stands at around 48 grains, which allows for further load customization.

Every major rifle manufacturer makes a weapon in the caliber, from bolt actions to autoloaders, and even single shot “benchrest” guns.  A huge variety of military builds are available, including the FN-FAL, the HK G3, and the M1A1/M14—all decades-old proven battle rifles.

The author’s hunting and protection weapons include the following .308’s:

• A Custom short-action bolt-action built for 300 yard+ target shooting
• A Remington 700
• A Browning A-Bolt
• A HK G3 with short barrel
• A FN-FAL Paratrooper
• An M1A1 from Springfield (New version)
• An M14

All of these weapons serve different purposes and allow further customization of the round.  This caliber forms the basis of the author’s biggest weapon/caliber pairing.

If one had to pick the most versatile round for off-the-grid living, the .308 would definitely be among the top three, and it would likely take the top spot because of its amazing versatility, long-standing reputation, and the relative ease of finding ammunition and add-ons, not to mention the terminal capabilities of the round.  It is certainly worth the exploration if you are considering a new rifle this hunting season, as it can serve you outside of the hunting season as well.

©2011 Off the Grid News

The fact is, the more you understand, the easier it is to make the transition. So many individuals don’t want to work on the things they don’t understand, and it can keep them from being able to protect themselves and their families during a trying time. The more you know about firearms and what they can and cannot do, the more inclined you will be to start becoming proficient with them. We fear what we don’t know, and that fear can paralyze you. What worse spot is there to be paralyzed by fear, than when firearms are involved?

A scene played out in New Orleans in the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Katrina that has few contemporaries. Never before had a city been so desperately in need of help and yet so dramatically hostile. It was a time where hundreds of thousands of individuals began to make choices to protect themselves against their hostile neighbors, to protect their possessions, their life sustaining supplies, and their families. Unfortunately in many cases, those individuals were left without the means to protect against the hostilities that come along with tragedy and disaster. The supplies and infrastructure were in short supply, the law enforcement was unable to cope with the risk, and good people lost everything, not only from the damage of Katrina, but from rioters, looters, and maniacs running the street with not enough sense, or too much will to survive at the expense of others.

It was an almost post-apocalyptic scene, and yet, one that could have been comfortable for many more families, had they prepared for such an occurrence, and understood what was necessary to survive.

It wasn’t only about food and shelter; this situation also forced people to be able to protect their loved ones with force at times.

This website helps prepare people for the unexpected. It’s a real-life form of insurance to understand the potential outcomes of unexpected situations and know how to handle oneself in such situations. This article should help you prepare for choosing and using a firearm, and coping with the responsibility, power, and capability that come along with that firearm.

Choosing a firearm and training with it can have a lot to do with your personality. Are you aggressive? Are you more proactive or reactive? Do you prefer to have choices, or are you more capable when you know how to do one thing really well? Are you the type of person who wants looks, or do you prefer utility?

Most homeowners would be comfortable with just a single home-protection firearm in the form of a simple-to-use, rugged pump-action shotgun or a revolver. But often times these guns may not be the best bet for specific situations. It’s not always prudent to own just one firearm, and it may not be a good idea in stressful situations to field a full arsenal either.

With costs rising, and regulation tightening around firearm and ammunition manufacturing and distribution, factors come into play when choosing firearms that have never been a factor before.

Some basics:

• No matter which gun you choose, you will only be able to use it effectively if you understand it, receive training on its usage, and actually practice using it.
• Any gun can be a hindrance if you do not understand the psychological awareness and decision making that surrounds a hostile situation involving firearms.
• All guns can be unsafe and therefore must be respected and used properly.
• Simply having a gun may mean nothing if other measures are not taken to secure one’s safety.
• A gun won’t get you out of trouble every time. A calm and cool attitude combined with real preparation will be the most effective means to ending a hostile situation.

Choosing a gun is not a choice that should be taken lightly: potentially it can save you and your family in a defensive situation, provide ongoing food supply, and give comfort in a trying time.

Basic gun types:

Shotgun: A long gun style that has an enormous amount of firepower and is best suited for close range or defensive postures. It shoots shells made from plastic and metal which encase a densely packed projectile made up of multiple smaller projectiles. It can be a very useful firearm for hunting, self defense, and breaching buildings, but may be difficult to use while on the defensive, due to smaller capacity of ammunition and size. Effective range in some cases may not exceed a hundred feet.

Pistols: Handheld, concealable, highly intuitive, and quick. The range is similar to shotguns, perhaps a bit less unless a user is well trained. Handguns are easily controlled for safe storage. These guns are ideal for close quarters but don’t necessarily lend themselves too well to hunting and securing food.

Rifles: The best firearm for procuring food from wild animals. The most proactive gun in defense as it can be used from well over 100 yards for protection. Rifles are not ideal for close quarters and tend to be slower to engage with. Some practice will be necessary for accurate usage and quick deployment.

Assault-style rifles: Perhaps the most versatile weapon (depending on how it is configured for self defense), but it does have some limitations in situations where a user might be reactionary, like in a close-quarter unexpected fight. Assault-style rifles can be used with add-ons in some cases to provide more of a weapon system than a singular firearm.

Choices that should be avoided in self-defense situations:

Black powder guns, presentation guns, very old guns, and rare or oddly chambered guns (those that require expensive or rare ammunition).

In general a combination of firearms will provide the best potential outcomes, so long as proper and adequate training can be obtained. A proper and prudent amount of ammunition should be obtained also.

Some notes about different scenarios for proper preparation:

If you are utilizing a purely self-defense firearm, in an area where natural disasters do not occur regularly, ammunition needs may not be as heavy as other scenarios. One should plan to have the following supply for short-term needs (this setup should be a good base preparation):

• Shotgun: 1 case of ammunition or approximately 250 shells of a midrange-type should be purchased, with 3-4 boxes of specialty ammunition – ideally 1 each of 00 buckshot, rifled slugs, high power (magnum style if the chambering will allow for it), and non-lead rounds.
• Pistol: 6 boxes of ammunition (approximately 300 rounds) of high quality ball-style ammunition and 2-3 boxes of specialty hollow-point or expanding self-defense rounds (approximately 40-150 rounds).
• Rifle: 8-10 boxes of ball-style ammunition (150-250 rounds) and 2 boxes of specialty ammunition with high-quality specialty bullets and new casings (not reloads unless made from new components).
• Assault-style rifle: 1 case of ammunition (approximately 200-500 rounds)

If the following applies to your needs, desires, or personality:

If you tend to be more proactive than reactive: you can expect to feel more comfortable by doubling your ammunition supplies and magazines/reloaders; if you are using a rifle or assault-style rifle, consider purchasing a scope to match. This will satisfy your need for being more prepared.

If you tend to be reactive more than proactive: you may need less ammunition, but may need to take more time planning your defensive setup. A reactive setup may not allow for long-term sustainability.

If you plan on being prepared for the longer-term scenario: you could feel more comfortable by tripling the basic supply and buying some extra components like magazines, magazine springs, and extra cleaning supplies. These supplies will help prolong the useful life of your setup.

If you have more than one property or a large amount of assets to protect, a large family to protect, or live in a particularly population-dense area and cannot secure your property well: you may consider buying four times the supply, and purchasing multiple firearms, as well as training more than one person in their usage.

Firearms can be very valuable in trying times, and inevitably, being over-prepared will almost always be a better choice than being underprepared. With that in mind, it should not be a goal to become an arsenal. If you do choose to purchase several firearms, then it should be done quietly, and you should take precautions to safeguard the firearms to avoid theft, targeting, and groups of looters coming to clean you out.

A comprehensive setup for a family of four in a situation like the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina (where homeowners were forced to shoot at others to protect their families), might look like this:

• 1 AR-15 style assault rifle in .223 caliber with a short range scope and 4 extra 30 round magazines, cleaning equipment, and 750 rounds of ammunition
• 1 Glock 22 pistol in .40 S&W caliber, with 3-4 extra 10 round magazines (where the capacity cannot exceed 10 rounds) or 2-3 extra 15 round magazines (where permitted), and 400 rounds of ammunition
• 1 pump-style Mossberg 500 or 590 shotgun with an extended magazine and 250 rounds of ammunition.
• 1 Ruger 10-22 rifle with a 100 yard scope and 2000 rounds of ammunition.

Reasoning: The assault rifle can serve as both a mid-range sniper rifle for suppressing threats from 30-150 yards and as a hunting rifle for larger animals. The pistol is easy to use, safe, and provides good defense in close quarters. The shotgun can help provide easy-to-use defense for another member of the family to utilize and can be used to hunt birds and squirrels, as well as help provide entry into locked down buildings or homes. Finally the .22LR rifle can provide a very versatile small game hunting rifle or a last ditch defensive weapon to keep attackers from getting too comfortable or coming into your home.

It may seem a bit extreme to have four firearms, but in periods of sustained self reliance, the spread of usage over several firearms will extend the usable life of the ammunition and weapons, as well as give you more peace of mind knowing you have what it takes to get the job done.

A quality bare bones setup for most hostile situations would consist of:

• 1 AR-15 style assault rifle in .223 caliber with a short range scope and 4 extra 30 round magazines, cleaning equipment, and 750 rounds of ammunition
• 1 Glock 22 pistol in .40 S&W caliber, with 3-4 extra 10 round magazines (where the capacity cannot exceed 10 rounds) or 2-3 extra 15 round magazines (where permitted), and 400 rounds of ammunition

Reasoning: You will want hunting capabilities and long-range defensive capabilities, as well as an adequate number of rounds to accomplish your needs. The pistol will also provide supplementary defensive capabilities. Two firearms allow you to have more firepower and get aid from another family member in defensive scenarios.

Some final notes for this basic overview on choosing an appropriate firearm:

• Don’t be stingy; a quality weapon will outlast many lesser-quality firearms
• Do not underestimate your need for ammunition, and buy high quality—your life may someday depend on this choice.
• Buy extra cleaning supplies, magazines, and springs for your gun and magazines.
• Make sure you have the tools and knowhow to AT MINIMUM field strip your weapon and clean it well.
• Make sure you are comfortable using the firearm(s) you choose and that your family members understand how to use them and are comfortable with them as well.
• Buy safety and storage equipment to protect against the elements, theft, and curious children.

Some high-quality firearms that may be a good fit for defense and home protection in a hostile situation, along with their approximate prices:

Shotguns:

• Remington 870 pump action < $500
• Mossberg 500 or 590 pump action < $500
• Benelli M1 or M3 automatic > $500
• Remington 1100 automatic ~ $500

Pistols:

• The entire Glock series ~ $500
• 1911 style .45 cal single action > $500
• HK USP > $500
• Smith and Wesson 629 .357 Revolver < $500

Rifles:

• Remington 700 ~ $500
• Springfield Armory M14/M1A > $1000

You can expect to pay another $250-750 for a good quality scope and mounts

Assault-style rifles:

• Major brand (Colt, Bushmaster, DPMS) AR-15 style ~ $500-750
• FN-FAL Style new build > $500

You can expect to pay $300-550 for a good quality scope and add-ons including high capacity magazines

It’s important to use this information only as a starting point for getting a feel for what you might need or want. Articles in the future will offer more insight into the specifics of firearms and the model’s intended usage.

It is always best to understand a wide variety or weapons in case you find yourself having to use one that is not yours. Additionally, it is important to know general best practices with regards to firearms.

Being prepared can put you in a better position to protect the things that you love and the property than is yours.

It is in times of extreme uncertainty and after unexpected events where preparation pays off best. Plan now when you can evaluate your choices, save for the costs of a proper defensive setup, and prepare physiologically and psychologically for the time when you may be thrust into using a firearm for more than a sporting reason.

Most importantly: AN ARTICLE MAY BE HELPFUL IN CHOOSING A FIREARM, BUT IT IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR PROPER TRAINING AND PRACTICE.

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The Bad Guys Are Getting Desperate…
As A Patriot You Must Know…How To Hide Your Guns!

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Featured Weapon: The Yawara

In this article I will be focusing on the yawara. This non-lethal self-defense weapon is actually often overlooked as an option – not because it lacks effectiveness, but because so many people don’t even know it exists. The yawara is highly effective when you have received the proper training. It isn’t necessarily the flashiest self-defense weapon, but it can definitely get the job done and help protect you in your time of need.

The History of the Yawara

The yawara is also called a pasak or a dulodulo. It is a Japanese weapon used in various types of martial arts. The original concept of the yawara was that two pieces would be used together  with the pair sticking out about an inch beyond each side of the hand when a fist was formed. It was popularized by Professor Frank A. Matsuyama in the 1940s when police officers of that time began to use the weapon. It was originally made out of wood, but now the modernized version comes in metal or even plastic.

Special Features of the Yawara

A Yawara is about four to six inches in length and not quite an inch wide. It can be hollow or solid, depending on the manufacturer. The idea is to be able to hide the stick in your hand when your fist is clenched. Doing this allows you to be able to strike quickly against the enemy without them knowing what has hit them – literally.

The target when using a yawara stick is the neck, throat, or temple. You could also aim for the eyes or the nose too. A great method of practicing is with a punching bag. You want to develop a good swing and improve your reflexes.

One of the best features of the yawara is that it can be easily concealed. This proves to be a huge advantage in a variety of situations. Many yawaras actually have a keychain attachment on the end, so that they can be attached to your keys for easy access.

The Cost of the Yawara

The yawara stick is very inexpensive, especially when compared to other non-lethal self-defense weapons. One will run you anywhere from $10-$25, depending on where your purchase it from, and it is readily available in a variety of online stores.

Training Requirements of the Yawara

To maximize your ability to use the yawara effectively, you will need to obtain proper training. If you already have a martial arts background, these techniques should be easily mastered. Obviously it will take those without such a background a bit more time to get the hang of using this weapon.

As I mentioned above, I am not saying the yawara will be perfect for everyone; however, with its compact shape and inexpensive price, it may be an option you want to look into for your self-defense needs.