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How To Build An Underground, Off-Grid, Virtually Indestructible Home

wales_houseWe have all heard the one about how if you dig a hole straight down into the earth, eventually you come out the other side of the planet in China. While theoretically this might be true, in the real world it would not be possible. If the tremendous pressures you would encounter didn’t do you in, the intense heat ultimately would, and at a certain depth all of your excavation and drilling equipment would melt (and you would too).

As we travel downward it gets hotter and hotter, and this precludes digging all the way to the center of the earth and beyond. But the earth’s capacity to produce and hold heat can be of great benefit to human beings. If instead of trying to dig to China we instead go just a few feet down, we will discover temperatures that are always moderate even on the most frigid winter days – and also on the hottest summer days, since the earth’s temperature at a depth of a few feet does not fluctuate more than slightly over the course of an entire calendar year.  The planet’s natural warmth can be exploited as a source of energy (geothermal), but it can also be used to shelter living spaces and protect them from the elements all year round.

Yes, it is indeed possible to build homes that are partially or almost completely buried beneath the ground or the earth, and this type of residential construction has a lot to recommend it to those who are concerned with reducing costs and holding down their resource consumption.

Earth-Sheltered Living Options: A Summary And Assessment

While earth-sheltered housing is not common, it has been around for a while. During the energy crisis of the 1970s, people became increasingly interested in finding ways to reduce their consumption of fossil fuel, and energy-efficient forms of architectural design and construction began to draw a lot of attention. Underground living seemed to offer great promise, and many experiments were undertaken to explore potentially practical options for earth-sheltered homes that would be affordable and efficient.

These efforts met with mixed success, but the underground/earth-sheltered living movement never completely died out. In the years since the initial burst in interest introduced this unique and innovative style of building and living to the masses, much has been learned about what works and what doesn’t, and as a result people who are interested in constructing earth-sheltered dwellings now have some legitimate options to choose from.

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The key principle that gives earth-sheltered homes their utility and viability is thermal mass. This scientific measuring standard rates the ability of materials to absorb and retain heat, and it turns out that the ground beneath our feet has a higher thermal mass than just about any other substance. The earth’s capacity to store heat and store a lot of it for a long period of time is quite impressive, and it is the ground’s thermal mass properties that explain the consistently warm-to-moderate temperatures we find when we move just a few feet down below the surface.

Image source:

Image source:

While some earth-sheltered homes are built completely beneath ground level, many are constructed using a technique known as berming. Earth-bermed homes are built largely above ground, but piles of soil are then pushed up against the walls – all the way to the top – to form a protective cocoon of earth and vegetation that will separate the outer shell of the home from the open air. Roof covers of soil and vegetation may or may not be included with earth-bermed homes, but most seem to prefer them since they do increase a house’s protection against atmospheric heat and cold.

There are three primary design styles for earth-sheltered homes: atrium, penetrational, and elevational. For those who would like to maximize their protection from the sun, the wind, the heat, and the cold, the atrium style is definitely the way to go. All of the rooms in such a residence are built completely beneath the surface of the earth, in a “town square” type of arrangement surrounding a central atrium space that functions as the home’s entrance from above ground. Each of the rooms of the home will face the atrium on the north, south, east, or west, with spacious windows and possibly glass doors to allow the natural light to filter in from above. A short flight of stairs down into the atrium is all that is necessary to reach the bottom of the home’s central space, as the underground rooms are generally placed no more than three feet beneath the earth’s surface, given that subterranean temperatures are steady beyond this point.

Because its open outdoor space and adjacent rooms and entrances are all below ground, the atrium style delivers the most privacy and the greatest amount of protection from the vagaries of nature (high winds, thunder storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, wildfires, etc.). However, because it is literally a hole in the ground, the atrium can easily fill with snow in a blizzard or rainwater in a tempest, which can cause flooding and drainage problems if some kind of system for diverting rain or melting snow has not been installed. Because the living areas are entirely beneath ground level, the rays of the sun are not able to enter at a low enough angle to provide ample amounts of natural light, and because the central outdoor space opens directly to the empty sky, the views enjoyed from inside the home are only as good as the effort that has gone into creating an attractive atrium space.

The elevational style, strictly speaking, is neither underground nor bermed, but is more of a combination of both. Elevational homes are built directly into hillsides or mountainsides, looking almost as if they have been inserted into the mouth of a cave, to enough depth to completely cover the side and back walls of the home. The front of the house is left open to the air, usually facing the south in order to harvest the natural heat and light provided by the daily sun. Roof covers are normally added to such a home to complement the berm-like sheltering effect of the hillside, and houses constructed in the elevational style have shallow rectangular shapes that feature bedrooms and living spaces arranged linearly in the foreground so the sun can provide heat and light to all the important rooms of the house. Elevational homes are the least expensive type of earth-sheltered structure to construct, and with their hillside locations they frequently offer grand panoramic views of surrounding natural vistas.

Penetrational homes are built above ground, but are designed to fully exploit the protective abilities of the earth. Each wall of a home constructed in the penetrational style is completely bermed, with only the spaces over doors and windows left open to facilitate easy entrance, good cross-ventilation, and the effective harvesting of natural light. Roof covers are the perfect finishing touches for such a home, which is so well protected from the elements that it might as well be completely under the ground, even though the entrance of light and air remains unobstructed. Variations on the penetrational approach are certainly possible; for example, the southern side could be left open as it is in an elevational home, while the rest of the house (save for the windows and the back door of course) would be fully bermed.

Problems And Issues

Inside the protective shell of the earth, temperatures generally remain between forty-five and sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit all year round, and it is this moderate range that allows underground homes to remain comfortable in all seasons. Because the surrounding temperatures are so mild, heating and cooling costs can be reduced from 50 to 70 percent in an earth-sheltered residence.

Image source:

Image source:

However, this will require the use of insulation, since unprotected walls will eventually reach thermal equilibrium with the surrounding earth unless steps are taken to ensure that heat produced or collected inside the home is not leached away through the walls. The value of the earth as a climate modifier does not come from its insulating properties, which are minimal, but rather from its capacity to soak up and hold warmth, allowing it to maintain a moderate temperature level and dramatically reduce the need for artificial heat or air conditioning in an earth-sheltered home. But thermal equilibrium must be avoided, since the temperature of the earth at a few feet below the surface is just a bit too cool for comfort. So insulation will need to be used on the outside of the walls in an underground or bermed home to make sure that livable temperatures can be maintained inside with less reliance on secondary heating sources – or no reliance on them at all in the summer time. To keep the insulation from touching the earth, a protective layer of board will have to be added, and the wood used must be thick and strong enough to withstand the pressure of the earth pressing against it without warping or breaking.

While insulation is important, before it can be added the outside areas of an underground or earth-bermed structure must be fully waterproofed. Thin sheets of plastic, rubber, or artificial rubber specially designed for home protection will need to be applied to the walls and the roof to make an earth-sheltered residence watertight, since the earth can easily pass on moisture to anything with which it comes in contact. With the insulation placed on top of the waterproofing, things are even more well protected, and a special type of drainage or filtration mat will need to be placed over the insulation on the roof in order to make sure that any moisture that comes from above can be easily channeled away. Underneath the poured concrete foundation of an earth-sheltered home, a layer of sand at least four inches deep (for the purposes of drainage) should be put in place, so that water cannot work its way into the home from below. A living roof made of soil and vegetation can provide even more protection from the elements, as much of the rain that falls from above or washes over the top of the home will be absorbed by the roots of the roof’s plant life before it can seep in deeper and cause trouble.

Choice of location for an earth-sheltered home will go a long way toward eliminating any potential moisture problems. Areas where run-off from rain or melting snow could be a factor should be avoided, as should locations that have low spots where water might collect. Most importantly, it is essential to always build above the water table, otherwise even the best waterproofing schemes will be tasked to the breaking point, and it may prove all but impossible to keep moisture from leaking through into the home.

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The weight and pressure of the earth will obviously put an enormous strain on the walls and roof of an earth-sheltered home, which is why concrete makes an excellent choice for a building material. While poured concrete can work just fine for the foundation and the floor, concrete blocks stacked and coated with a thin layer of fiber-reinforced surface-bonding cement are the proper selection for the walls of an earth-sheltered home, which must bear up under lateral pressures that can be quite significant. Heavy timbers should be used to construct the roof, which must be able to handle the combined load of the earth above it and the snow that falls in winter.

Even though underground or earth-sheltered living is highly efficient, because it is unconventional and has some special requirements the costs of a home constructed in this style will generally run from 10 to 30 percent higher than the average aboveground structure. Ultimately, the return on investment provided by lower fuel costs will more than negate the extra upfront costs, but for some, the higher initial expenditures could be a deal breaker. Studies have shown that over the long haul, earth-sheltered building is most economical for those living in climates that have significant temperature extremes and low humidity, such as the Rocky Mountains and the northern Great Plains. Elevational homes are the cheapest to build, but they tend to pay for themselves quickly only in those locations where relatively long and cold winters are the norm.

One hidden problem that potential underground home owners must be aware of is the possible presence of radon, a colorless and odorless gas produced in the ground by uranium decay that can be life-threatening if it collects in sufficient concentrations. While it is not impossible to build an earth-sheltered structure in areas with elevated radon levels, steps will have to be taken to guarantee that all radon can be collected and vented from the home, which adds another layer of expense onto a project that already can cost a pretty penny.

The Undeniable Advantages Of Earth-Sheltered Living

To those hearing of it for the first time, underground living might sound more like exotic fantasy than practical reality, something we would put in the same category as flying cars or cities built beneath the surface of the sea. It all seems so impractical and fanciful somehow. But earth-sheltered living, far from being the stuff of science fiction, is actually a practical and cost-efficient option in many circumstances, as long as careful thought and effort are put into the design, site selection, and construction stages of the projects. A number of details must be taken care of to make sure an earth-sheltered home will be warm enough, sturdy enough, and dry enough to be livable and stand the test of time, and this precludes cutting corners or taking shortcuts that might compromise performance.

But once an earth-sheltered home is finished, what you will have on your hands is something very special indeed. Because it is protected from the elements, it will require little maintenance and can outlast a conventional home by decades. Because it is constructed to take advantage of the temperature-moderating effects of the earth’s immense thermal mass, it will stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer without demanding significant inputs from energy-consuming auxiliary heating and cooling systems. And because it is so incredibly well-sheltered by the warm embrace of the surrounding earth, an earth-sheltered home will be largely impervious to the ravages of natural disasters such as tornadoes, hurricanes, earthquakes, and wild fires, not to mention the predations of human intruders with bad intentions.

So while it may be a surprise to discover for some, earth-sheltered living is an exciting option that all who are willing to think outside the box in their search for a more efficient way of living should investigate fully before they proceed with their plans to construct their brand new homes.

©2012 Off the Grid News

© Copyright Off The Grid News


  1. The major drawback to such habitations in an era of radiation hazards would seem to be that any radiation that fell from the sky would actually be mainly held in place by the earth on the roof! Once there, it could only be removed by changing out the earth itself, With the very real threats from Fukushima, or nuclear “incidents” from our own nuclear plants, acts of terrorism or outright war, we would much prefer shelters with plastic-coated roofing, oversize gutters and downspouts, and a large drainage field of rock aggregate at a considerable distance from the habitation. This should help to minimize the larger part of the health hazards from radiation in one’s immediate area.

    • The world which you describe is one I’d prefer not to survive. I’m afraid you need something more like a minimum 4′ thick underground bunker.

    • I am a truck driving and interested in building this kind of structure. My entire life has been unstable, moving and going places, I took to truck driving because I just don’t feel at home unless I am moving. I also have developed sort of a paranoia about change. Places change, people change and move on. Employment situations change, global economics change, disasters occur. Rather than sitting around working a regular job making house payments, waiting for things to change on me, hoping I am capable of dealing with any situation that should come my way… Rather than fearing all of that uncertainty, I drive, headlong into it. I don’t have to worry about weather or not I will be in the same place dealing with the same people tomorrow, because I know for a fact that I will not. Every day will be different, that is the one thing I can depend on, and I find comfort in the certainty of uncertainty.

      That being said, I know I will grow tired of this chaotic lifestyle and I will want to retire to a home that I know will always be there, and it will not be freezing cold or sweltering hot. I want a structure that requires zero maintenance and will last for hundreds of years. I require a structure that is capable of withstanding natural and man-made disasters, and self contained to be livable in through financial difficulties. Since I will not be there for most of the time it also must be zero maintenance. I am interested in a concrete structure with rebar reinforcement, and solid steel I-beams where concrete cannot be used. Off the grid is not a must, so long as the structure is capable of functioning when the grid goes down. Being on the grid enables you to sell your excess electricity back to the grid, and reduces the need for expensive batteries that have to be replaced regularly. I am also interested in the mixing of concrete and expanding foam for insulation. As far as cell phone reception goes, there are cell phone “boosters” that include an external antenna, an internal antenna, and an amplifier. The whole system functions as a relay. Speaking of cell phone signals, I may also be interested in EMP shielding to protect my electronic devices from man-made EMP weapons, and solar flares etc.

      • Kevin, sorry meant to tell you my email is [email protected]. Thx

      • I am saving for a concrete earth bermed home myself. I live in AZ so want something I can keep cool without paying a fortune for air conditioning or survive in without electricity. I do want the solar battery array as well as wind mills to have enough power for a refrigerator and some luxury items like my kindle & washer. I know I can get propane appliances but want to get away from fossle fuels as much as possible. I believe the economy will crash soon & want to be ready enough that I can still live as comfortably as possible when it happens.

        • earthships seem really cool, they have a website and programs where you can learn to build them. they use recycled materials too. i also want to get away from fossil fuels and the like and i think this might be the way to go.

      • Sounds like an interesting house Kevin, What state would you build such a house? Would you grow your own food, have pets, or livestock, how would you take care of septic needs and drinking water?

        Pamela from Mass

    • Actually every foot of earth cuts radiation by half. This is the reason bomb shelters are built under ground.

  2. As fart as I am concerned earth styled structures are the only way to build. It is just common sense. I designed two different styles of earth sheltered structures in the early 90’s. I consulted with an archetect,engineer about the cost of heating and cooling,the actual construction costs and the findings were phenominal.
    I have looked for someone for years for financial backing. This project would easily be able to be franchised.
    If any one is out there that would like to discuss this farhter I can be reached through this e mail.
    I am only interested in conversing with someone with knowledge in this type of archetecture and is serious.
    Don’t need any brain pickers or time burglars

    • George,
      In 2008 I designed and built a “root cellar” as a prototype for an underground structure.
      Although I have not yet completed the inside, it has endured for years with no structural problems.
      I am also looking for someone who would like to develop the idea. I used domed ferrocement technology
      with the chief goal of the project being to find a low cost structurally sound approach. Waterproofing was emulsified asphalt and burlap. No massive timbers are needed as the weight of the earth actually
      increases the strength of the structure. I would be happy to email you some pictures if you would like.
      my email is [email protected].

      • Hey Bob,
        I have a pretty good idea of what you are talking about. If you want to send me pictures I would like to see them. [email protected].
        Right now I feel I have a good design and I would have to work up a budget and square foot price for a project because it has been years since I have persued the idea of building one of these structures.
        Last time I worked up a price I was approx. 10% to12 % under the cost of a stick built home of equal square footage.

      • I have always been interested din underground living areas, both for the temperate advantages, and for the protection from storms. This last year I built a 10’x8′ root cellar/storm shelter. It is a regular cinder block structure, with rebar in every cell of the block. The roof was poured the same time as the walls were filled. I built it into a hill, leaving just 1 wall exposed. The roof is only about 8″ underground. I put in drainage around the base, waterproofed the outside before burying, and sealed the inside well. After putting in wood shelving, and stocking it with home canning and homemade wine, I was really pleased to get an average of 65 degrees. Better than I expected being in the Deep South. The only issue I’ve had so far is mold growing on the wood shelving. I had no ventilation initially, so put in a small vent in the lower part of the door and one in the ceiling at the rear of the shelter. I’m hoping to get some natural convection and with the air flow to help with the mold issue. I may end up replacing the shelving with the wire closet shelving before long. Nothing else other than the wood has any signs of a problem, so will see how this experiment goes. I think if it’s a lived in structure, with air moving thru it more, it would probably be less of an issue, but as this is closed up most of the time it is more of a problem. This is a trial run for building a small underground ‘cabin’ on the back of the property. The temperature was better than what I expected for being so shallow, but the ventilation issue was unexpected.

      • Hey Bob would you send me photos and more tips and info on cost effectiveness you have found? And any instructions, good advice, etc on the primary stages? Would really appreciate it. Thanks [email protected]

      • What about an underground building in a humid environment like Mississippi? I worry about moisture intrusion causing mold. Thoughts?

  3. I have been studying earth homes for some time… great article… though you MAY wish to do a follow up on mold problems… Moisture MUST be mitigated (in any home) or it becomes a serious health issue, especially where I live in TN.

    I have been playing with a double walled idea where you are living in a temperature moderated shell within the outer shell, the space between the two shells has methods for moderating humidity and temperature as well as offering any drainage that might be needed.

    You may also wish to include underground heat sinks… both ground cooled and heated for water storage. Water is an even better thermal mass. You can rig above ground solar water heating to an underground heavily insulated water chamber and have virtually no need for external water heating. Regular rain water collected and stored underground will be like the cool water that runs in homes now.

    • I also live in Tn and have studied these homes for over 30 yrs. Unfortunately my ex killed the idea. But, what you are talking about also would work if had a south facing opening with a greenhouse in front and plants that are watered by large cylindrical fish tanks as the waste would feed the plants and the water would heat the home at night also the fish would feed your family. Have numerous books and articles about this subject and would be happy to pass info along at [email protected].

      • Pat, the greatest thing about this type of structure is that it is adaptable to almost anything.
        Heat pumps,wood stove charged once a day for about three hours will bring your home to your comfortable temp. and will maintain it for many hours. You have the option of using electric heat for your main heat and it turns out to be very economical.
        The biggest hurdle is getting around the building codes, BUT it is relatively easy to do that.
        With the direct sun it is not unusual to realize an energy net gain of 35000 to 70000 btu per hour and when the sun sets a loss of 3 to 4 btu per hour is reasonable.

      • Hey Pat, Hello Pat, I know you don’t know me but I am a subscriber to offthegridnews where I got your email address. I’m REALLY interested in underground living and eventually plan on building and living in my own UG home. I remember you said that you some info on this subject. Have a great new year & I hope this is one of your best years ever! think4yourself

  4. I know that there must be good data sets that would chart earth temperatures at varying depths. However, I keep coming up with conflicting indications and a lack of organized data. Confirmation that earth temperatures do depend on where you are located is evidenced at the following sites:
    Data obtained at: indicates SE TX when summer afternoons are mid 90s, temp at 80 cm depth is almost constant 78. indicates that at a depth of 10 feet (3.04 m), the average ground temperature is 75.12°F in summer and 75.87°F in winter. National chart indicates that mean earth temp here at 30+ feet is 75.
    So appears that for my location I might expect to obtain a comfortable year round temperature of mid 70s without HVAC but my root cellar would need to be very deep in the earth and possibly below water table!!

    • My research has shown if you stay around 3 to 4 ft. deep ( cover) and use the appropriate insulation with a good strong moisture barrier it is not unreasonable to expect a constant temp of around 55 to 65 degrees year round.
      It is not necessary to go deep.In most cases you are inviting unecessary dead loads and lateral pressures.
      Drainage is of significant importance.

    • When it was over a 100 degrees this summer in Central Texas, I never saw my temp go above 86 in the house. When it was under 32 outside, inside it never went past 68. And I bought an Earth home that needs major umbrella work. Once i have this complelted, I should see an even tighter temp range, maybe 70 to 80 all year round. My earth is about 3 to 4 ft thick with 1.5 feet of loam compost in my moisture zone so I can retain water for the Buffalo grass in the hot Texas summers. Windows and door choice and proper insulation of an R30 or better is also key. Vacupor is a good product from Germany that is only 1 inch thick! Most insulation is 2 to 3 inches and only has an R value of 15 to 20.

      • Hay bales stacked tightly provide R30 to R40 depending on the angles necessitated. In the case of a domed roof, as an example, gaps will be created along the curve. However, using hay bails in conjunction with an additional umbrella over it actually increases you R factor by five. The key in using natural materials over the roof is moisture-proofing. It takes time to reduce moisture already in the soil at the time of construction to achieve maximized thermal benefits. The internal temperature of your living space will fluctuate as much as 5 – 10 degrees in the first year, enough that it will likely change your approach to heating / cooling.

      • Scott, Can you please send me your email address?

  5. 24 years ago, we built our semi-underground home. It has 3 levels and 3250 SF. The living area is 3 feet below ground level on three sides. The bedroom areas are all 15 feet below ground. We also installed a closed loop heat pump system for heat and air. We have been very happy with this design.
    In a total electric home of a fairly large size, our electric bills seldom exceed $200 per month. We have experienced power outages lasting up to a week in the depths of winter, and the inside temps stayed about half way between ground temp and air temp, never coming close to freezing. We can produce plenty of electricity to ride out the outage with a 6000 watt gas generator.
    Sleeping is always cool, quite and dark, no matter what time of day. When visitors stay with us, we find they may sleep much longer than they normally would because there are no indicators that it is time to get up, except that you are well rested.
    The best benefit is that we no longer worry about the common nighttime tornadoes in Oklahoma. They may wipe the ground clean but we are still safe well below ground. We have had as many as 28 people join us during a tornado outbreak because we have literally all the comforts of home in our “shelter”.
    There are many factors to consider in constructing this type of home, and some added costs, but I will enjoy this home for the rest of my life.

    • Well Ridale, I have to say you are 100% right.
      Proof is in the pudding you might say.
      I do not know why this type of building has not caught on but it is great to hear from you and hearing of your success with your home.

    • Have you found cell phone signals to be blocked by the earth? Am interested in such blockage potential…Thanks.

      • We own an elevation style earth home in N TX. Cellphone signal can be a problem if we are not in the front part of the house. Wifi has not been a problem, perhaps that is due to location of the router. Temperature this winter, with heat off for a week during a cold spell, averaged around 64 degrees. Last summer during sustained triple digit temperatures, inside temperature averaged in the mid-70’s. it was comfortable to sleep with a fan in the bedroom. It is a wonderful home but now, I want to do some remodeling – knock down some walls to open the space. There are steele joists throughout the attic crawl space so don’t know if I should be concerned about weight bearing walls or not.

      • I live in an Earth Sheltered home in the Austin, TX area. 1800 sqft with 3 concrete domes each about 24×25. If you have a newer phone with 3g or better you should not have a problem. I am with Sprint and they are average with service signals. I can take and make calls and use my data at the very back of the home. Once tip of advice. WATERPROOF! Waterproof the heck out of you home. Moisture is you number one enemy. Use only sealants that can expand and contract with movement and do NOT use clay style sealants because they require moister to function. Again you want to avoid moisture. And at least 3 layers of visqueen style plastic and insulation umbrella in underground shingle format with gravel drainage. Moisture is your enemy.

        • The UG home you have built is exactly what I want to build on my land. I’m learning about UG home building now and would appreciate anything you can forward to me including building planes and proper “WATERPROOFING”.
          If you can help with information in anyway my email is…

          [email protected]

          If ANYONE can help me with any information in anyway in rearguards to building and joining 3 UG domes please do…

          Thanks ahead of time.

    • Please contact me about your underground house design. I’m looking for long-term owners who can direct in in the right steps to avoid a poorly designed home. Can you please help me with some information? Who was your builder? Any problems with permitting?
      Kendall in Bossier City, La. (Northwest Louisiana)

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  8. Just came across this article. I am going through pre qualification process and want to build an earth sheltered home around the Magnolia area in Texas. Does anybody know of any builders that do this stuff? I found a website by a company called Conrad Castles and wanted to see what my options are. Please email me if anybody has any information [email protected]

  9. Does anyone have a sample budget for building this type of home?

  10. Hi all,
    I build theses homes. When you use an experienced builder they cost less. Keep spreading the word about the benefits. Theses homes are a keys to a better future. I also add grey and black water systems to reuse the waste water. Black water goes into biodigestors for methane capture. It results in free cooking gas. They grey water is used to water the plants. I use a living wall on the exposed areas to help save more energy and make the homes even more beautiful. When choosing landscaping, go with an edible organic model to further save your money and provide a healthy alternative to the chemical filled food that is found in the supermarkets.

    Best Regards from Saint Michael’s Sustainable Community in Costa Rica,

    Justin Dolan
    Founder of the Permaculture Country Club

    • Justin, How does that work? Do you bring a team from Costa Rica? Where do they stay? Sounds like it would really be expensive if I had to pay for a team to stay for how long? SOOOO many questions!

  11. I recently purchased a berm/earth sheltered home in southern Indiana. The home was built in the mid-80’s but was built very well, sheltered on two sides in an existing rise of the property. The roof is at ground level on the bermed sides. The insulation factor is phenomenal. No need for AC on 85 degree days. There are some difficulties that often go overlooked. It was very difficult to get the home valued and appraised. Some lenders are not very educated in these types of properties. It was even worse finding insurance for the same reasons. The bedrooms are non-conforming, meaning they have no windows. No windows means they do not count in valuation; my home is considered a 1-bedroom even though it has 4. No windows also means no egress for fire escape and therefore increased insurance. I had to provide documentation and educate many people along the way. We also had termite issues to remedy. Termites love underground homes. Do your homework. I have no regrets at all, but it is not an easy road to own or sell a berm home.

    • Termites , waterproofing , radon mitigation , insurance , valuation and mold are the exact types of topics that make this site invaluable . I wish all of these issues were in one easy to read place . Someplace or something that you could give to a contractor and crew that took 20 minutes or less to read so as to bring them up to speed on the issues of underground living .
      Thank you all for your information .

      • Hi Mark
        Did you find the information complied in one or two sites?
        I’m in AU and find there is common concerns
        I am just beginning to explore options for earth homes and appreciate useful sites

      • Can anyone recommend any websites or other resources where comprehensive information on UG homes has been compiled? A directory of contractors, etc. would be extremely helpful. I live in Maine. Thanks very much.

  12. I am looking for a home to be underground like I open the door and am underneath the land! I’m trying to see how much I would need to create something like this but need to know what all I should now! I’m just trying to get off the grid.

  13. How long does the roofing last under the soil? I am looking at a berm home built in the early 70’s and have more than a few questions.

  14. I am looking at the feasibility of building an UG home in the South West of Western Australia.
    Love the articles and comments.
    The climate here is very hot in summer with high fire risk and cold in winter


  15. We live in a berm style home in Missouri. The house is buried to just below the roof line on three sides; the south side has our windows and doors. We have a skylight in most of the back bedrooms.

    Recently, the power was out for most of the night. It was 25 degrees outside and we never got cold even without the heater. Note: propane furnaces do not work without power to ignite the gas and blow the air. We will be adding a whole house generator and a wood stove as soon as we are able. Right now it is 35 degrees outside and 73 inside: the furnace hasn’t even kicked on yet. We are sitting here in t-shirts and are perfectly comfortable.

    The only cold thing in this house is the floor. The family who lived here before us put down carpet and peel and stick flooring directly on concrete with no water barrier or padding. That will be rectified.

  16. I am interested in finding out who built your home and if there are contractors in the USA who are building these at this time. I currently live in Tennessee and will be looking to buy and build in the near future in a nearby county here. What is the average cost of building a 3-4 bdrm approximately 3600 sq ft home with a basement as well. Would like to know more about the water proofing and what it cost as well as what you used to do so. I have an extensive knowledge of construction in my background but I am looking for more information regarding the underground build and Engineering of it . Any information you could provide, including links or names of contractors, would be greatly appreciatted at this time.. Thanks for your help and have a good day.

  17. Hi! My name is Praveen I want to build a underground house but I don’t know anything about it I want to know each and everything about it all the requirements for building it .Please can you help me.

  18. I have been looking into building an elevational style home with Formworks Buildings. I want to build both a house and an attached garage/barn so we can do chores without having to leave shelter during the winter. Has anyone had any experience with them?

  19. hi there. i am a student of civil engineering and my final year project is to study and propose an underground shelter for 5000 people and site i have selected has an area of about 93000 square feet. and it is a ground no construction is done above grade. so, i am providing a 50′ earth cover for it. i have proposed the plan for it consisting of 7 hexagonal structures attach with each other you can say its a B-7 category shelter now major problem comes that i need to design its entrance so i m confused whether to provide entrance at central point of structure or at one side of bunker and how much entrances can be provided for this much population as they are the week points as well. and also how to go underground

  20. Radon anyone who has ever done any research on how people get rid of radon knows it is also how one keeps a healthy house.. Look up radon remediation and it is the identical solution to keep from having a sick house that is to well sealed up.. Oddly just running a vent fan to pull air in and expel it from the house is how it is done. I doubt that whoever wrote this article has a clue about ventilation in any home or they would have simply said.. that Radon is not a problem … just make sure you exchange the air. Just you do in a SUPER insulated home.

    • A lot of the questions asked are answered in John Hait’s book on Passive Annual Heat Storage. I highly recommend anyone looking to build read that book first. His answer to radon is the same: ventilation. Now how do you that in a super tight underground house: earth tubes. They make you house an open loop air system. Tubes at least 100ft long and insulated with an umbrella will naturally conduct heat to and from the soil while pulling fresh air into the house due to natural convection. If your house is warmer than the earth surrounding the house it will blow out the top and pull in from the floor and when the house is cooler that the soil the flow reverses. The length of the tubes is to get the air to moderate by storing or pulling heat into the earth before it enters the living space.

      For what it’s worth I am long term planning my retirement home in a PAHS design. I probably will build a concrete shell home (such as monolithic dome). But I have many years to design, plan, and buy land before I build. Also Mike Oehler who wrote the $50 underground house book, suggested that I read “A Pattern Language” by Christopher Alexander to help me in my design. That is an architecture book that looks at all the various features in living spaces from the city level all the way down to nooks under stair cases. It is part of a 3 book series and I also bought his other book “A Timeless Way of Building”. There is a lot to learn and consider and hopefully these references prove useful to the readers here.

  21. as of jan 2017 I am on a two year plan to move to northern Idaho fron northern California, from southern California. I’m building a subt home into a gently sloping south facing hill- the 30′ wide by 40′ deep living quarters on the left as you face north is next to a 40′ deep by 60′ wide shop garage nestled to the right using steel reinforced insulated concrete forms, and a freespan graybeam lid similar to a parking structure. I worked as a concrete form carpenter for Valero refinery in Wilmington, California for 3 years. across the deep interior, a 20′ deep by 60′ atrium is the roof for a second floor where I will grow vegetables and sew boat canvas.
    the first thing to place after the machine has the general cavity open is to trench down the center from the very back out to the front and beyond. A 4′ diameter concrete storm drain will act as a drain for a aggregate [gravel] envelope surrounding the entire structure and an escape route. as opposed to a 12″ pipe… it will have a bearing bulkhead at the face where a craftsman style façade with front porch will attach–and the garage will have a matching façade. both units will have a 4″ thick floating hydronic heated concrete slab floor.
    storm style mud room doors out front and possibly double roll up doors for the shop. uphill, connected by subt stairs is a two story structure, routing supply plumbing down to the living quarters of a 2500 gallon water systern tank, and a second level above it for a screened summer room, or vista room. todd

  22. Any opinions on the green magic homes fiber modules?

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