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6 Simple Ways To Get More Heat From Your Wood Stove

6 Simple Ways To Get More Heat From Your Wood Stove

Photographer: Daniel Morrison / Flickr / Creative Commons / https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/

When the weather outside is frightful, it can be a challenge for people dependent on a wood-burning stove for heat. The question is: How can you improve the efficiency of your wood stove?

An obvious answer is to buy a new one with a built-in catalytic combustor, but they can be expensive. Thankfully, there are other ways to do it.

Here are some steps you can take to improve the efficiency of your wood stove:

1. A clean stove and chimney

Barring a warm spell, it’s a little late in the season to do some of this work, but good chimney sweeping and cleaning of the interior of the firebox can improve the efficiency of any wood stove. This also cleans out any creosote, which can impede air flow and pose the potential danger of a chimney fire.

Air flow is critical to good combustion and heat, and anything you can do to properly manage it will make a difference. If you have a brick chimney, make sure any cracks are sealed. This not only will avoid the potential for a fire but also will improve air flow.

2. A well-sealed stove and damper

There are two primary controls for air flow on a wood stove. These include small gaps that can be opened and closed on the front-bottom of some stoves, and the damper on top of the stove or in the chimney about two to three feet above the top. The damper is the primary air-flow control.

6 Simple Ways To Get More Heat From Your Wood StoveA problem can emerge if there are unwanted gaps on the stove. These typically happen around the door for the fire box. There are kits that allow you to replace the gasket, but it requires you to remove the door and let it cool. That’s tough stuff during winter. There are also kits that allow you easily to fill gaps as a short-term fix. Either way, an unwanted gap will cause you to lose control of your air flow and result in a fire that burns too hot for too long.

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The damper also could have a smoke leak or allow air to enter where the spindle emerges from the chimney or stove. This spindle is attached to the damper flap and here again, wood stove supply stores or websites have various solutions you can quickly apply.

Assuming your stove is well-sealed and the damper is operating properly, there are some key things to damper management. The basic advice is that whenever you start a wood stove fire, you should leave the damper fully open for 30 minutes to get the fire off to a good start and properly heat the chimney for efficient drafting.

3. Seasoned wood vs. green wood

Green wood can have a moisture content between 30 and 60 percent. The result is poor combustion and lots of smoke and creosote. In fact, green wood with a very high moisture content takes more energy to burn than the energy it releases in the form of heat. It’s important that you use seasoned wood for a wood stove.

The U.S. Forest Service recommends that firewood be seasoned for six months to a year in a sunny location and protected from rain and snow with a tarp.

Another firewood consideration: Are you using softwood or hardwood? Softwoods, like pine and fir, are great for starting a fire because they burn hot. But they also burn very fast. That’s why you want to establish a good, hot bed of glowing coals with softwoods and then add two or three hardwood logs like oak or cherry. Hardwoods burn hot when well-ignited — and burn long. Make sure you don’t overload the firebox and when necessary, carefully remove the ashes to an ash bucket and dispose of in an ash pit outside.

4. Added iron on the stove top

My mother has three pieces of cast iron in the shape of ducks sitting on top of her wood stove. The iron pieces get hot and increase the heat exchange capability of the stove by presenting a larger hot surface area to the surrounding air. There are also iron pieces with simple fan blades that actually spin very slowly as the heat rises and runs over the blades.  This, to a small degree, can help distribute some of the hot air.

5. Forced-air blower

A more robust solution for air distribution is a forced-air fan that will blow the hot air from the stove’s surface into a room. This requires electricity so it’s not a pure off-the-grid solution, but solar panels could be enough to power the fan.

6. The catalytic combustor

Image source: stove-parts-unlimited.com

Image source: stove-parts-unlimited.com

Many of the newer wood stoves feature a catalytic combustor as an efficiency feature. You also have the option of buying a separate catalytic combustor for installation into an older stove.

A catalytic combustor is a ceramic disc, usually about six inches in diameter and two inches thick. It has a honeycomb appearance and is coated with a rare metal called palladium. It’s inserted into the top of the stove where the smoke rises to the chimney and works to combust the smoke.

Smoke is essentially a gas that failed to combust and (most of the time) requires at least 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit to fully ignite. A catalytic combustor will combust the smoke at temperatures as low as 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

The result is that the fire burns better and hotter and any residual smoke that could cause creosote buildup is reduced. In fact, a catalytic combustor can reduce creosote buildup by anywhere from 20 to 90 percent

It’s reported that catalytic combustors are good for 12,000 operating hours before they have to be replaced. That equals 500 days, so you can probably get several years of service from one catalytic combustor.

One caution is that you should only burn natural woods (no building lumber, paper, or treated woods) with a catalytic combustor or the life of the combustor and its efficiency will decline.

How do you make your wood stove more efficient? Share your tips in the section below:

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12 comments

  1. Hi. I liked your article on wood burning stoves. You also said don’t use paper to burn in the stoves creating smoke. How can I light it to start a fire without paper? What is the best way please.

    • You can buy firestarters at your local big box stores or Sears, etc. Or you can make your own starters. Info is on the internet. Or do old school with tinder and kindling.

      • Easy way we do it is to use the cardboard egg cartons, fill the holes with sawdust and then melt old candles and pour the wax over the sawdust. the wax hardens and forms a barrier so the sawdust doesn’t fall out and they are easy to light with a match and they burn for a while so as to catch the kindling on fire.

        • If you don’t have old candles, go to any good grocery store and buy a box of paraffin canning wax. Use this wax to take the place of the candle wax in the old paper mache egg carton.
          Another very good fire starter is to take cotton balls and rub vaseline or any other brand of petroleum Jelly into the cotton balls and then stuff the cotton balls into an old, empty, prescription pill bottle. When you need to start a fire pull a petroleum Jelly cotton ball out of the pill bottle place it into a little pile of sticks or small diameter wood and light it. You can use sparks onto the petroleum Jelly cotton ball from a ferro rod or from an old fire starter flint and steel if you are out of matches.

      • Thank you so much Steve and Jeff!

    • A great sustainable firestarter is when you go to the supermarket, go to the veggie area and ask for the wax boxes that some of the vegetables come in. cut them in 2 inch by 4 inch pieces and use 3 when starting a fire.
      Drink holders from fast food places a good also.

  2. Connected to a heatsink that retains heat even when the fire diminishes.

  3. I have found a very easy way to clean the glass. I use a paper towel soaked with (blue) Dawn and water on cool glass. It just wipes the tar right off. I don’t rinse, just wipe and leave a very thin film. Every time it gets easier! Doesn’t seem to harm, etch, etc. the glass. It’s amazingly easy.

  4. Clean glass with moistened newspaper dipped in clean great ash, then wipe with wadded up dry one. Works great& free.

  5. Just installed a new Alaskan woodstove this past summer with an outside air feed so my stove isn’t drawing warm air from the house up the chimney. Also added a rock wall on two sides and have rocks piled up around the base of the stove.

    So far, it’s working great and we’ve seen 35 below, but it definitely works better with a foot of snow on the roof!

    You can see my installation at http://www.tsiyonbound.blogspot.com. It’s on YouTube.

  6. Something important left out of the article, I believe, was the fact that having a baffle in the stove increases the heat output by quite a few percent. The baffle becomes superheated by the flames. The smoke, gasses etc. have to pass around the baffle; the baffle is super heated by the flames & smoke & gases get consumed by the super heated by the hot baffle. I have stoves both with & without baffles. Furthermore, there there is virtually no smoke or gasses exiting the chimney when you look at it after a few minutes; the exhaust is clear. It burns much hotter & longer because of the baffle. Because the smoke & gas are being burned/consumed there is much less pollution & much less ashes as well.

  7. I found this by burning some bad tortilla chips. Put a small handful under your kindling and start with a propane torch.
    They burn hot and long and start the kindling well. I assume this is due to the oil in the chips.

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